Rome, Italy
 

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Jamie and Brad Kuntz

Jamie and Brad Kuntz

Jaime and Brad are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman University, while Brad is enrolled at the University of Southern California. They are blogging about their study abroad experiences in Rome, Italy.

Monday, May 25, 2009: Rome

Posted by Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jaime and Brad are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman Univer
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on Monday, 25 May 2009
in Spring 2009: Jaime & Brad Kuntz

Jaime and Brad Kuntz are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman University, while Brad is enrolled at the University of Southern California. They are blogging about their study abroad experiences in Rome, Italy.

JAIME

Barcelona
The weekend before finals, and after our 4 papers were due, I flew to Barcelona to meet up with some of my girlfriends and to see my friends and host family from when I previously studied abroad there. I met up with my two really good friends from Chapman, Elyse and Chelsea. Elyse's older sister, Amanda, and Chelsea's friend, Tracy, who also studied in Florence with Chelsea came too.

We all took the low-cost airline, RyanAir, into Girona and then took a bus into the city of Barcelona. We all arrived within about 20 minutes of each other so it worked out perfectly. The bus was really easy and a gorgeous, green drive. It went by quickly since we were all so excited to be there and had a lot to catch up on. When we arrived, my friend Guti came and picked us up. We stayed in his apartment with him and his sister, Ana. Once we arrived there wasn't much time to kill. Us girls were told to get ready as fast as we could so that we could make it to our 10 pm dinner at a sushi restaurant.

5 of us girls at Opium
5 girls with Guti (our host) in Parc Guell
"America's Next Top Model" in Parc Guell
Meeting up with Karla and Ari at La Sagrada Familia
Tapas!
Last night to dance
Toni, Brad and Jaime taking the Art Therapy Final
Friends at Champagne Party
Farewell Dinner Toast
Saying goodbye to Susan, Ashley and Luisa
Brad's "USC Fight On" pose in front of the REAL Coliseum
Ciao to the Surge with Eddy and Akmed
Emma and Veronica
Solo walk to the catacombs
Statue head in the flower bed
Eary Christian symbolism
Prince Katto
Jared, Alex, and Chris at our Champagne Party
Bullseye at the surge!

In Spain it's very uncommon if a family eats before 10 or 11 pm. After some sushi and sangria, us girls, Guti and some of his friends all went out to a club called Opium del Mar which was right on the water and very fun. We stayed out until about 5 am, but the club was still packed as we were leaving. Needless to say, we were exhausted and had a lot ahead of us for the rest of the weekend, so we were okay to go back to the apartment.

We decided not to sleep in too late, despite the night owl lifestyle, since there was so much to show all my friends in Barcelona. On Friday we walked through an outdoor market and then went to Parc Güell. It was a beautiful day, so Gaudi's incredible park was so much fun. We decided to do a reenactment of one of the finales from America's Next Top Model which took place in the one of the absurd, open hallways. There were random people taking pictures of us, they must have thought that we were actually models!

After the park we walked around a little bit and then went back home for a power nap. The girls came with me later to my host families house (just a 20 minute walk uphill) and my host mother, Maria Alba, made us dinner. She made us a tortilla de patatas, which is my ABSOLUTE favorite meal from Spain. It is like a really thick omelet with onions and potatoes inside. It is SO difficult to make, so I try to take advantage of ordering it and eating it while I'm in Spain.

My host family was doing really well, and I was so excited to see them again. It had been 2 years since we last saw each other. I wish I could have spent more time with them, but I didn't have much time in Barcelona to begin with this time around. We went out to a music bar later that night where we were greeted with champagne at entrance so we weren't too disappointed.

Saturday we had another fairly slow morning, starting with a café con leche, and headed toward La Sagrada Familia, which is Gaudi's famous, intricate cathedral that has been in construction for almost 100 years. It's just so detailed and abstract from most architecture. My friends Carla and Ari (who came to visit earlier in the semester) met up with us at La Sagrada Familia and then we all migrated to café nearby to have some lunch and drinks. I ordered the tortilla de patatas ... of course.

We then went downtown where all the shopping is, and where I spent a lot of my time when I lived there. We stopped and got my favorite snack, a gofre, which is a really sweet Belgian waffle with chocolate sauce and whipped cream. We then continued on to La Rambla which is a very famous street in Barcelona full of vendors and people that dress up like statues. The street leads to the ocean, but we didn't make it that far. Instead, we stopped and got some typical tapas which are just a bunch of delicious appetizers.

That night a couple of us went out to a club called Ribelinos; not everyone could quite take the heat of such late nights and sightseeing everyday. It was a lot of fun, and my friend Carla came too. Unfortunately I had to be at the bus stop by 11 am the next day, so I didn't stay out too late. The bus ride was sad knowing that I had to leave such a wonderful city and go back to studying for finals and packing my apartment up. It was a really fun trip, but I was exhausted for the rest of the week.

Goodbye Dinner: Jaime
On Thursday evening I made it to the Farewell Dinner that LdM threw for us. I met up with some other girls to find it, and good thing, because it was very difficult to find. After we finally found it, we ended up at a typical Roman style restaurant where they serve food that was eaten in those times. The servers even dressed up in the old time tunics and robes.

To be honest ... I didn't really care for it all that much, some was good, but all in all I can't say it was my favorite Italian food. It was still a fun time regardless and there was a pretty good turnout. We were in a very young area of Rome, which was a change, so it was fun to walk around and see the outside area of bars with people our age. We hung around there for a while, where Brad magically found us.

I was SO overwhelmed with joy when he showed up, mostly because I had left my keys in the apartment and had no way to contact him since his phone was broken, but also because I didn't want him to miss out on our last night with all our peers. Unfortunately, I had to call it an early night, I was just too exhausted and had way much to get done on our last day in Rome.

Final Thoughts: Jaime
It was hard to believe that Brad and I had already completed a semester in Rome. It went by so fast that I hardly remember the beginning. We got to see so many places, cool things, and learn a lot about where we were living. I loved having classes that dealt mostly with the Italian culture; it was easier to understand everything that we experienced. I am so glad that I chose Rome as my Italian city to study in.

I never ran out of things to do, and saw something new or noticed something I hadn't noticed before every single day. The popular study location in Italy, Florence, would have been way too small for me to live in for a whole semester. It is a beautiful city, but I feel like when I'm there that there are more American University students than native Fiorentini. So I don't think I would have had the same experience, but who knows, it's different for everyone.

It depends how much you are willing to step out of your comfort zone. Our school was great, and the staff was so awesome. They worked so hard and did so much for us to enhance our experience. Our apartment was in a key location, and I will never forget every single time that I just ran over to the Coliseum just to look at it. We were so blessed to have our situation. I am especially glad that I was there with my brother. I loved to watch his excitement of being there, since he hadn't experienced study abroad before. He definitely took care of me -- I always felt safe.

I'll miss Rome, but I tossed at least 10 coins in the Trevi so I have no doubt that I will be back. Since I've been home, I had a day and a half to recover and then get thrown back into action. I started summer school that Monday, and will not have a break the whole summer; on top of that I have started working a little, but won't go full-time until the middle of June. I think I'll miss the laid back attitude of Italy. Thanks to all our readers this semester! Ciao!

BRAD

Home Alone, Lost In Rome
The weekend that Jaime left me in Rome alone to visit her friends in Barcelona was by far the craziest weekend I have ever had studying abroad, and quite possibly the wildest weekend of my life.

Now, I would not necessarily accuse Rome's Pub Crawls of being tourist traps because they exist in plenty of large cities, but because it is an easy way to drink excessively at multiple pubs, meet new people, and get a free t-shirt and pizza, a substantial number of young American tourists tend to flock to these Pub Crawls on their short Roman holidays. So despite our agendas of participating in strictly Roman activities, a large group of other LdM students and I agreed that in our final days of living in the city, we would join the tourists at the Spanish Steps and crawl from pub to pub just to say that we did it. At worst, it would be 20 euro in the hole.

I was solitary in my apartment writing an email (more like a novel) to one of my best friends, Stu, back in Los Angeles. Consequently, I was running a bit behind schedule, but I quickly threw on my best narrow-toed leather shoes, slacks, and a black collared shirt, and literally ran through the streets to meet my LdM friends at their apartment. I knew the road they lived on, but had never actually been to their front door, so I pulled my phone out of my pocket to give them a jingle and it died. I raised a curious eyebrow since I had just fully charged it, and I turned it on again only for it to die just before I could dial my buddy. Peachy.

I briefly considered yelling at each window before I took off running and booked it towards the nearby Barberini Metro station, just one stop away from my destination at the Spanish Steps. Underground, I slyly slid my month-long Metro pass into the turnstile machine, feeling like a true local, and was denied twice before I realized that it had expired for the month of April...it was the first week in May, and I felt like a true tourist. If I had a month left in Rome, I would have ran to a tabacchi (tobacco store) and bought a new pass for May, but this was my last week, so I turned around and walked ten feet to a vending machine for a one way ticket. I fumbled with my wallet and glared at my lone 50 euro bill -- the machines take only 5's or coins. To make matters worse, the adjacent snack vending machines only took 20's -- no chance for change.

So, sticky and humbled, I ran out of the station in search of a store and entered the nearest one, but the line was long enough that I ran out before anybody looked up. The only other businesses on the street were restaurants, and I did not know from whom to ask for change, but I spotted an ATM across the street and nearly knocked the man over in front of me as I inserted my card. After a quick rejection revealing that one may not withdrawal 5's, but 20's at minimum, I jogged back down to the station, purchased a cheap processed pastry in the snack vending machine and bought a one euro ticket with my change. I grudgingly ate the chocolate coffee flavored cake on the escalator down to the track and got off the train one stop later.

I had to find humor in the comedic screenplay situation I was in and laugh a little. I was fifteen minutes late, and had no idea where the first pub lay on the crawl, but I jogged, panting and exhausted, towards the steps and spotted my group of friends just as they and the guide were departing for it. I never cease to amaze myself. Needless to say, I had quite a story to tell on the walk over. Whether the night would be fun or not, just simply making it there was satisfying in and of itself.

The first pub had a free t-shirt on entry, and for an hour had an open bar (jugged wine served in plastic cups and Carlsberg beer) and free slices of mangy pizza. I stuck with beer. After sitting and watching soccer and socializing in a large loose circle with our group we noticed that beyond the many American tourists, other folks from Britain, Scotland, France, and other countries were there too. I returned to my seat with a fresh brew and a belly full of beer to find a cute, curly brunette girl sitting in the chair next to mine. She responded with a French accent when I struck up conversation. I quickly learned that her name was Emma and she was a med-student from Caledonia, a French occupied island off the coast of Australia. She introduced me to her thin, gorgeous, blonde friend, Veronica, and their friend Toma, both of whom were also from Caledonia studying medicine. All were on a weeklong vacation in Rome.

We departed for the next pub and my new French-Caledonian acquaintances and I chatted as we crawled, and received limoncello shots at the next front door entrance. I didn't have time to introduce them to my group. I was whisked away immediately to the dance floor to be passed back and forth between the two girls for the rest of the night.

We were herded all over central Rome and ended at a happening club, Gilda, where we danced until obscene hours when I said goodbye to my newfound friends. My LdM friends had all left by this time, and I had no clue where I was, but I chained my way around the barren streets of late night Rome and eventually stumbled upon my apartment and crawled into bed.

Catacombe San Domitilla
I slept in sufficiently the next morning, and awoke in a stench with chapped lips wearing not much more than my recently acquired pub crawl t-shirt. I showered and dressed, thought about whom I might like to hang out with then remembered that my phone was broken. As I researched the history of a few catacombs around Rome and how to get there, I checked Facebook to see if anybody in town was online, but nobody was. I was soon thereafter out the door, free of a cell phone and armed with an iPod, three crayons, a notebook, and a vague idea of where I was going.

It is liberating to be free of any form of communication. Nobody knew where I was, nobody could call and ask me where I was, and I was not able to get onto the addicting and increasingly indispensable internet to contact anybody. I became an old explorer, a vagabond wanderer, just an unknown stranger in this world. And I loved it. Pink Floyd was the score to my brisk walk along the highway, and as I approached the location of vague idea of where I was going, my bearings sort of blurred into oblivion until I consulted a roadside map.

Suburban Rome lies on top of miles and miles of a network of underground burial tunnels and chambers called catacombs. My only experience navigating catacombs is from playing the animated game, Diablo, on the computer. The map directed me towards Via Appia Antica, which I knew to be the residence of many of these catacomb entrances, so I moseyed in that direction. The catacombs lay outside of the city limits because ancient law forbade burial within central Rome when pagan cremation was the norm.

The earliest burials were clandestine, Christian martyrs buried in secret, as followers of Christianity were relentlessly prosecuted, but after Emperor Constantine passed legislation making Christianity the official religion of Rome, the Christians underground burials proliferated and the catacombs expanded like a spider web around the city. At the end of the road I saw a large bold sign that said CATACOMBE SAN DOMITILLA, and I was sold.

Outside of the church, I entered the gardens and was taken aback by their tranquility and mysticism. A larger than life bearded statue head peered through a flower bed at me. Early Christian symbolism was etched on stones scattered throughout the gardens, and flowers were laid at the feet of Jesus Christ in his shrine. Beyond the garden blew a field of my favorite deep red Roman poppies. I put my crayons to use while I waited at a garden picnic table for the English tour of the catacombs, but a simultaneous combination of listening to music and focusing guaranteed that I missed it.

My misfortunes melted and recast me into the lucky recipient of a one on one personal guided tour of the catacombs. She led me thirty feet underground, into the only originally underground basilica in Rome. A procession of pillars lined the side of the grand buried sanctuary and led us to the entrance of the largest underground catacombs in Rome. At its deepest it descends ninety feet underground, spontaneous chimney chutes are used to circulate air downward. Carved into the walls of the short narrow tunnels are horizontal nooks that served as resting places for the early Christians of Rome.

Symbolic fresco art was still preserved around the tombs but the bodies had long returned to dust after centuries of decay and disintegration. I felt rather claustrophobic, even though I thought high school wrestling had conquered my fear of small spaces. Without my guide, I would have been lost in the catacomb labyrinth forever ... and being without my cell phone, nobody would have known about it either.

Dom Perignon with Katto -- Peccato Divino
Later, back at my apartment, I kept close by the computer to facilitate contact with the outside world. I almost returned to my never ending project of listening to song samples and making epic playlists, but panicked and quickly changed my mind when I remembered that this was my last full weekend in Rome. I Facebook chatted with some girl friends of mine who lived in an apartment by the Vatican and they invited me over. In minutes I was dressed and primped with a bottle of white wine for my hosts and an iPod for the trek, and I set out for a night on the town outside Vatican City.

With a vague idea of where the apartment was, I walked past it at least four times searching for their front door. Luckily a fine young resident let me in because I had neither a phone to call nor knew the displayed name to ring a buzzer. Upstairs, Susan, Luisa, Ashley and I conversed over a few Tuscan wines and the Lazio wine I had brought over, I talked about my solo trip to the catacombs, and we watched YouTube videos until we had a real hankering for some live jazz music. Luisa and I had been to a nearby jazz bar, Fonclea, earlier in the year and decided that we ought to venture that way once again.

Time must have slipped through our fingers with wine glasses in hand because by the time we got there, the band had packed up and the bar was on its last call, so we devoured a few quick pints before being booted. Outside the entrance we started talking to a man that we met with a guitar on his back. He had been playing music and making indie films around Italy most of his life, and happened to be playing the guitar at Fonclea on this particular night. After inquiring of an open establishment to continue our festivities, he recommended that we walk a few blocks down the street to an enoteca (wine bar) called Peccato Divino (Divine Sin).

The sign above the door encompassed devil horns protruding from a wine glass and the elegant place was vacant except for a few old men. They said that they were closed, but graciously offered Luisa and I a candlelight table for two. We laughed at how romantic our night out on the town had become. We opened the menu and quickly deduced that we could barely afford less than one percent of it. Every region of Italy's finest wines along with French, Chilean, German and other prominent wine countries ... some costing over 200 euro per bottle. We opted for the cheapest bottle of Venetian Prosecco sparkling wine on the menu. A conversation transpired about the glamorization and minimalism of wine in various socioeconomic classes which evolved into discussing the cultural functions of the bide and whether God exists.

I looked up from our table, through our empty Prosecco bottle, and smiling back at me with an air of dignity was a short rather odd looking old Asian man in his sixties, difficult to discern in the flickering candlelight, but wore an all white suit, a red bow tie and round spectacles. He introduced himself as Katto, and we humored him with small talk in Italian. Then the Italian man who had let us in, a civil engineer and film executive, approached our table and reintroduced Katto as “The Prince of Japan.” He explained to us that his grandfather had been the emperor of Japan and Katto was now a world renowned traveling doctor. In English, Katto invited us to join him, the owner of the wine bar, and his two friends at their table.

“You are my guests, order whatever you would like,” said Katto. Feeling overwhelmed, I responded, “we want whatever you want.” A bottle of Dom Perignon appeared in a crystal bucket of ice at the table. Luisa and I made eye contact, indicating both “whoa, Dom with the prince” and “how ironic that we were just bashing expensive wine at our previous table.” We all spoke in Italian because it was everybody's common language, and everybody smoked cigarettes because it was Italy. It was my grand opportunity to put any conversational skills from Italian class to good use.

Katto was an entertainer, loved being the center of attention. We listened to him speak bubbly in the five languages he knew from practicing around the world, he playfully accused the Italian men present of being Mafiosi, and he apologized profusely to me for flirting with my girlfriend, claiming that he was a “civilized person,” though I assured him that Luisa was just a friend from school. We were having a great time, and I was doing my best at being genuine, establishing a connection between Katto and me that we had both lived in Japan, and making any conversation that I could in my new tongue.

Things took a turn when I thanked Katto for the wine, he lectured me, “do not say grazie (thank you), say piacere (pleasure). A beggar would say Grazie if you gave him change, but any man of status says Piacere because he needs no gifts.” How arrogant, I thought. This bottle of Dom is more expensive than the sum total of my wine expenses for the semester.

When he asked and I reminded him that I was raised in Montana, he patronized that, I did not know my country, did not know New York, Hollywood, or Los Angeles and did not know anything. I steamed and shot back, “I have seen nearly all of my country including New York, I live in Los Angeles, party in Hollywood, and you can go (insert explicative).” I was not being hostile, just defensive, and playful to a certain extent. Everybody laughed hysterically at my retort.

Katto ordered beers for everyone and informed me that he could send me into my next life in a split second with his karate, then went on and on to the owner that I was a nice person. I saw Luisa shudder when Katto stood up to play chiropractor on me and cracked my neck both ways. As eight in the morning rolled around my Italian grew feeble, and the poor rich owner seemed ready to be rid of Katto. I paid the owner for my 23 euro bottle of Prosecco, and he ducked into his silver Porsche. We practically had to push the logorrheic Katto inside and they sped off in the morning light.

Attivo, Passivo
I awoke in the girls' spare apartment bed in the late afternoon and set off towards my neck of the woods. I stopped short at the Vatican wall. I found it too ironic that a final goal of mine in Rome was to explore the Vatican museum with an iPod and I happened to be right outside of it equipped with an iPod from the previous night's trek. I suppose everything happens for a reason. I am always exactly where I am supposed to be for one reason or another, because whatever path I have chosen to be on has led me to where I am right now. My words would not do justice in feebly attempting to describe the experience of standing before the Sistine Chapel and listening to the Beatles and Ratatat. I wanted to cry but I could not.

I looked on sympathetically as people held their cameras up, stared intently at the Liquid Crystal Display screens that blocked their view of the frescoes, and snapped shots of the Chapel, attempting to capture a supreme moment with the flash of an electronic eye and remember it in the mind of a memory card. Pictures for the sole sake of external remembering lose their artistic quality, and become a memory only within the parameters of the picture. High definition megapixels will never exceed the infinitesimal voxels of the observable universe -- a photograph will never surpass an experience.

I napped back at my apartment. After opening my eyes, the fate of my social life was once again subject to the probability of the union of two events: me being online and a friend I like being online, although I would not confuse a mathematical model of chance with the destiny of my night. I made contact with a group of my East coast LdM friends and we agreed to meet at Trinity College, an Irish Pub between Piazza Venezia and the Trevi Fountain.

The pub's low lights and loud hip hop made it seem more like a club. My previous night's story of Dom with the Prince of Japan was barely audible, but entertaining nevertheless. A little later, we travelled down the road to Scholar's Irish Pub in vain because my friends were too inebriated to stick around. I had a wheat beer and watched soccer highlights and chatted with my loyal straggler, Jared.

It was late and should have gone home, but I continued down the street for no apparent reason and ran into a man that started talking to me. He was in his forties and called himself Luigi. He did not speak a word of English, so once again, I took advantage of an opportunity to practice my Italian skills. He had come from a town an hour away to party in Rome for a night, and was waiting out the darkness to catch his train home. We walked to an all night café back towards Scholars and I bought him and me a café corretto sambuca.

Finals Week
Sunday morning I went out in search for a flea market, but to no avail, so I just walked around Rome and saw street bands bopping in Piazza Navona and moseyed the flower market in Campo di Fiori. Jaime returned a few hours later and it was time to buckle down and study for finals. When she asked how my weekend was, I wanted to roll on the floor laughing insanely at the unfathomability of every event that had transpired since she had left.

I walked down the block during a study session to buy and deliver some pizza to our apartment. On my way, I ran into an Italian couple with a map out and they asked me for directions to their hotel. I had written on my application to study abroad that I wanted to speak Italian and know Rome well enough to give directions, and here was my chance. I successfully gave them directions, although whether they were mutually intelligible enough for them to successfully find their hotel or whether they are still wandering the streets will forever be a mystery to me.

Studying and finals did not put a damper on my last week in Rome. The interesting subject material of all our classes made studying enjoyable, and in art therapy and wine tasting we managed to drink wine during our tests. Needless to say, I was not too stressed out, and I felt as though I learned a lot. As a bonus, I think my tests and overall class grades were very well too. If I were getting credit for the classes I would check to be sure, but I am not, and my studiousness was for my love of learning, not for a grade.

After our wine final, Jaime and I went out to Al Boschetto one last time with our friends, Dave and Chris. We were disappointed that our all time waiter, Alessandro, was not working there anymore, so we did not receive our usual discount. Our last supper of food and wine was fabulous as usual though -- I had the famous Roman pasta alla carbonara one last time. We walked to the Surge for a couple rounds of darts before retiring for the night without studying for the next morning's early exam. Jaime was an animal with the darts, spinning around blindly and hucking the dart when she opened her eyes. We eventually gave the loser “vector projection rights,” where it counted if the dart board number section could be extended outward to where the dart stuck.

Champagne Party
Being done with finals is always a rewarding, relieving, carefree feeling, and history has shown that I tend to go on a mission to forget everything I just learned. How ironic that some of the guys decided that it would be a good idea to buy a backpack full of champagne and throw a party at school to celebrate the end of the year. How could I object? We found some speakers and an iPhone for music, then popped projectile corks into the road off of the sunny balcony, and conversed. Everybody was in bliss. Jaime ran around dancing with stunner shades on.

We all agreed to meet at the boys' apartment to leave for the LdM farewell dinner. I went home first, and took a nap. Later, I opened my eyes, and the dinner was nearly over. I knew the name of the restaurant they were eating at, but had no cell phone to contact any of them to inquire of the post-dinner debauchery. I drew myself a “vague idea of where the restaurant was” map on a torn piece of paper, put an iPod on, and figured I would take my chances and try to find my crew.

I walked for at least an hour. It was enjoyable with music to explore a part of Rome that I had never seen, but by the end I had passed their vacant restaurant and also Circolo degli Artisti, a hip live music club, and was tempted to just give up and go in. But right then, my path came to a crossroads with an alley that was filled with a myriad of people casually mingling, many sitting in powwow circles. And like a needle in the haystack, I saw Jaime and Luisa and Barbara and the whole gang out of the corner of my eye. Everybody was pretty shocked to see me, and could not believe that I had found them. Jaime was especially glad to see me since she forgot her keys at the apartment. It was a lot of fun to chill and have powwows of our own.

After saying a poignant farewell for the last time, a few of us decided to go to Testaccio one last time since it was the only place open at the late hour. It was pretty much eight girls and I, so I jumped on a table and started dancing to the pulsing music and some girls followed, but an angry baldheaded bouncer approached, reached through the girls, and pulled me down to the floor. Then the rest of the girls jumped up on the table to dance and eventually reeled me in again as well. The bouncer stormed back over and clasped his hand around my arm and threw me out of the club. I too would be jealous if I had to stand there and watch such an attractive guy dancing with eight girls on a table. It was unfortunate because the girls followed us out, arguing with the bouncer and defiantly hailed a taxi ... and that was our final goodbye.

The Final Surge
Friday was Jaime and my last full day in Rome. We finished packing and cleaning the apartment and we crossed the street to The Surge one last time for a few rounds of darts. I have many fond memories from this place; I had learned my Italian numbers by playing darts with the bartenders when I first moved in. Jaime performed much better this night in the darts, and vector projections were no longer necessary. When we said reluctant farewell to our bartending friends, they presented us with Surge ball caps and we promised to return someday. We were good business for them.

Perhaps we defied destiny by getting home to Montana, because it seemed as though some mysterious force or God or government was doing everything in its power to keep us from leaving enticing Italy. Jaime had called a cab and I hauled the luggage outside before locking up and saying ciao to our apartment. The cab was supposed to be only a few minutes, but Jaime called again twenty minutes later. They still did not show, so I called -- twice -- and nobody came. We enlisted the help of the Hotel Forum next door, and they offered us a 50 euro ride to the airport. I was sold. I looked out the rearview mirror and saw Rome getting smaller and smaller as it faded into the distance, and I waved goodbye to the Coliseum and the home that I had been so familiar with for the past few months.

Once I sat down on British Airways and buckled in, I fell asleep, but woke up to a sharp “ding” in a stationary heat wave with a damp face and sticky clothes. The captain announced that there was a problem starting the engine and the air conditioning would not work. The sun was frying our plane on the blacktop runway. It was like an oven. And the Italian air traffic controllers did not know their regulations well enough to solve the problem until an hour later. Whether I was sleeping or fainted in my seat would be a mute point.

When we landed in London, the plane that we would be taking us to Seattle had been struck by lightning and needed to be repaired, so we were delayed yet another few hours. Once on, I took advantage of the massive time slot to read a few hundred pages of Harry Potter, watch some Simpsons, Curb Your Enthusiasm, and Revolutionary Road. I had conquered jet lag before it could hit me, and caught up on some American media that I had missed while busily exploring Europe.

Jaime and I walked to baggage claim in Seattle and unfortunately one of her suitcases had never left Rome. I hear there is a stereotype that Italians are unorganized. Furthermore, we were directed by an incompetent employee towards a shuttle to get to our flight, which did not actually lead anywhere we needed to go, so when we pressed the “open” button, the train shut down, and the bomb squad, police, and other airport employees came and harassed us about wasting their time.

I did not want to argue the poor ergonomics of the airport to the cranky cop lady with the gun, so I kept my nose in Harry Potter. Our flight from Seattle to Montana was delayed too. When we finally boarded the plane and had settled in, we had to transfer to another one because of technicalities. But once we were finally on board, we met a nice actress, Kelly, who was performing in Bigfork, Montana for the summer, and we all had a plane party with a hilarious flight attendant.

Home Again Home Again
I played a game of folf (Frisbee golf) the day after returning to Whitefish, and the day after that, I had surgery to correct my deviated septum from a broken nose in wrestling five years prior. Everybody needs an occasional week in bed to watch TV on narcotics and listen to music. A blog might have turned out sloppy anyways. Unemployment is still prevailing for me although some sort of work is imminent and necessary.

Being away from the familiar forces you to appreciate what you have. Jaime mostly missed having a dryer and dishwasher and good cell phone to call Kurt with, though, these things I got used to very quickly and by the end, did not really notice it as part of my regular routine. For me, coming home makes me appreciate the brilliant stars, fresh air, healthy food, parents, brother, and my own bed and personal space.

Being away from Los Angeles has helped me appreciate its laid back atmosphere, challenging academics, beautiful weather, beaches, parties, and friends. Although, now that I am home, I have been forced to appreciate what my familiar abode does not have. I will miss the magnificent ancient architecture, the fine wine, the food, the laid back attitude towards alcohol and laid back attitude towards life in general, the hospitability of the Italian people, and simply exploring a new culture and country.

I arrived in Rome, skinny and scared, and the city gave me a chance to mold myself until I could metamorphosize into the person I am now. I finally had a chance to read leisure books and study subjects of interest to me. I took the opportunity to take a step back from science and fully experiment with the avant garde side of life. I appreciate evermore the scientific method and its accomplishments in reproducing society as an ongoing entity, but understand that it is just one way of looking at things that is limited to the parameters of science itself. Weekly wine tasting, painting, drawing, blog writing, travelling, speaking foreign language, film screening, and cultural events all did wonders for my life.

I know my personal happiness can be augmented by incorporating as many of these things into my daily life as I can. And what more could I ask for than to share these experiences with my own sister. We had such a great time together, and though we can be polar opposites in personality, we survived together in style, and we got to experience some amazing things together and become ever closer. Athena Study Abroad has done a wonderful job in figuring out logistics, settling us into the city, and giving us a multitude of enjoyable opportunities for adventure and exploration. We certainly took advantage of every opportunity that we could and seized the day every day.

One can never fully experience Rome. A main incitement for studying here stems from my first trip, freshman year of high school, when I discovered that four days was not nearly enough to see all of Rome. I recently discovered that four months was not nearly enough to see all of Rome, and I really believe there are lifetimes worth of experiences in the Eternal City, so it is best just to enjoy every moment while it is happening because your experiences are fully known only to yourself.

We are all sort of strangers in such an infinitely elaborate world, where cultural structure and tradition becomes our only familiarity and sense of belonging among chaos. It is impossible to experience an Eternal City; all one can do is enjoy a slice. And I suppose that is just what my experience was: Un Pezzo di Pizza Pazza Romana -- A Piece of Crazy Roman Pizza.

Ciao, see you in another life brother.

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Monday, May 4, 2009: Rome

Posted by Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jaime and Brad are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman Univer
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Brad
Monday: Futurismo & Rainy Dinner
On Monday evening, the gusts of wind through the Roman cobblestone streets did not fail to turn Jaime's cheap street vendor umbrella inside out on multiple occasions.  Nevertheless we arrived at the gallery across from the Quirinale just as the rain really picked up, with umbrella intact, and just in time to meet up with our student advisor, Barbara, and fellow art history student, Susan, to view the Futurismo exhibit of Futurist art. 

Neither Jaime nor I had any clue as to what Futurist art was, but LdM was paying for the event, so it was on offer we could not refuse.  The exhibit turned out to be quite an interesting experience -- a reflection of the feelings instilled with the onset of the industrial revolution period in the early 20th century.  Never before in history had there been unnatural mass production, noisy mechanical cities, bright manufactured light, the ugliness of straight lines wherever you looked for we all know from being four years old that there are no straight lines in nature. 

John trying to fight the rain
The damages of the rain
Jared and Brad in Italian Family presentations
Basilica San Paolo
Procession
"Bradisismo"
At Casa Bleve
The 3 amigos: Brad, Peppe and John
The 3 amigas: Mariella, Jaime and Laurie
Jaime trying to take her pizza out of the oven
Different view of Baia and the castle from Cymba
Underwater-part of a road
Baia Terme (the echoing chamber)
Baia Terme
Nice view with Temple of Venus in the background
John and Laurie with fig leaves and grape vines
Yet another beautfiul sunset

Most of these ideas manifested themselves in the art of the time, using a multiplicity of jagged lines, production imagery, and hidden pictures in the confusing blur of the speedy city.  The exhibit itself used bright lights to illuminate the paintings in such a way that was unnatural and difficult to look at, and in one area a track of mechanical noises played overhead.  Pablo Picasso was just one of many artists on display from the Futurist movement.  

John and Laurie were in Rome.  So after leaving the exhibit we met them at their hotel and decided that the weather had cleared up enough to walk towards the Pantheon for dinner.  We had made it no further than Piazza Venezia when the sky seemed to split open and dump an ocean of weather on us.  Furthermore, the wind picked up significantly so that the rain was pelting us horizontally and made using the umbrellas an exercise in futility.

I was soaked from head to toe except for the hair protected by my Sicilian hat.  I did not have nor want an umbrella, and whenever a street vendor would hand one towards me and ask if I wanted to buy one I simply stared at them with a look of utter disbelief that said something like, "Seriously? At this point, you have got to be joking."

Ironically, the rain essentially stopped once we reached the restaurant, where we were greeted by friends of John's and Laurie's visiting from Washington and blankets on the chairs of our outdoor dinner table -- thankfully underneath a tent.  I went to the bathroom to strip and wring my clothes out in the sink before returning to my cozy blanket and a meal of calamari, octopus linguini, and red wine followed by a warm chocolate cake and hot cappuccino. 

Tuesday: Pasta presentation and Basilica San Paolo
The next day, everybody was presenting various aspects of Italian culture in our Italian Family class.  Some students presented Italian holidays (it's no coincidence that the profusion of red, green and white during the Christmas season coincides with the colors of the Italian flag), others presented Italian social traditions, Italian wines, and Jaime and I did a presentation on the pasta of Italy and its fundamental connection to various aspects of the society. 

We also presented recipes for regional pasta dishes throughout Italy and in conclusion, I threw on an apron and cracked a few eggs into a volcano of flour to mix and knead into pasta dough as a demonstration for the class.  While I was kneading, we drank a few glasses of wine for Jared's Italian wine presentation, which was lovely although drinking alcohol in class was not anything new after having been in wine tasting class all semester

Jaime
After our presentation, Brad and I dropped some stuff off at home and then took the metro to Basilica San Paolo. It is a beautiful basilica, with so much gold inside.  It was very crowded in there, and there was beautiful singing echoing through the grandiose church. Then mass started and this very important looking procession of priests and altar boys took place. 

Brad and I thought that maybe it was St. Paul's day, because it was a Tuesday afternoon, and not a common time for such a mass.  However, after some research, I don't think it was St. Paul's day, but some resources show that St. Paul and St. Peter are celebrated in the end of April. However, I'm still not sure what the actual significance of this mass was. It was beautiful though, we sat in for about 15 minutes. We didn't really understand anything and we had a bunch of work to get to, so we parted back for home.

Brad
On Wednesday evening, instead of taking notes in a classroom and tasting afterwards, our wine class met up at a fancy Enoteca (wine bar).  It was called Casa Bleve, and was built on top of an old first century Roman wall.  It had a pristine atmosphere, with pillars and marble statues throughout the tall ceilinged room.  We were given a brief tour of the wine cellar in which we could see the buried Roman wall among an abundance of wine -- one of which was called Bradisismo.  I am now considering changing my name.  There were even bottles down there that cost a thousand euro. The wines we drank were significantly less expensive.  Our tasting included Jaime's favorite Sicilian wine, Nero d'Avola, and appetizers of goat cheese and bologna.

After the tasting, a good number of our class agreed to forget about any work due the next day and go out for a night on the town.  We walked to the nearby Trinity College Irish Pub, and sat at a table to drink a few pints and tell funny stories.  I saw my USC friend, Andrew, who was nearing the end of his pub crawl.  The next day he had forgot that he saw me until I reminded him. 

The next morning, I chugged enough coffee to make my eyeballs spin in their sockets, but at least I could give a presentation without falling asleep.  My lecture for Film and Mafia class regarded the second mafia war in 1970's Italy, very interesting stuff.  I gave a decent presentation, but I always get choked up when I present -- my stomach tightens and my voice quavers and I get rather nervous -- I would rather write from the comfort of my couch, but once I relaxed a little bit, things went fine.  Following the presentation we watched clips from a ridiculous low budget musical that made fun of the mafia.

Jaime and I had packed our backpacks and went directly from the school to Termini train station, where I bought a bottle of Sagrantina di Montefalco, a DOCG wine from Umbria, to thank John and Laurie for hosting us so often.  In addition I bought myself a banana, margherita pizza, and Paulaner for the train.  The train ride is beautiful, cutting through the country side and fields of wild poppies and old farms and small rural communities.  But the sun always blares through the window on us and creates a sort of green-house effect that makes us sweat profusely -- at least we had some music to distract.

We caught the three euro Ali-bus from the train station to the airport, close enough to John's work that he could pick us up, and we drove to their house only sparing the time to drop off our bags and were soon walking down the street to eat at Pepe and Mariella's restaurant, La Taverna, one last time.  We were given a smorgasbord of appetizers as usual -- bruschetta, calamari, boiled squid, mussels, eggplant, and artichokes -- only to be followed by a two pasta course with some Tuscan Remole and local Greco di Tufa wines and then strawberries for desert with limoncello.  I wanted to pass out.  Needless to say, we never left Mariella's hungry, and I can honestly say that it is the best food I have had in Italy. 

Jaime
Friday Morning everyone lounged around and enjoyed the warm weather out on the patio, while drinking coffee of course. I guess I should say Laurie and I did, because John went to work early, and Brad slept passed noon.  I started writing the first of three papers due this week; it pretty much took all day.  Although I was doing work basically all day, it was a very relaxed day. Instead of working, Brad decided to stay in bed all day and organize his billion songs in iTunes...he was happy to finally be able to do it. 

Around 6 pm we all started to get ready for a little get together Laurie organized. A few friends from town came over and everyone got to build their own personal pizza! Laurie made the pizza dough, and the rest was in all our hands. I tried the whole tossing thing, which didn't really work...but the pizza turned out so delicious. I had trouble sharing a whole lot of my pizza because I liked it so much.  It was a really nice evening as well, a lot of delicious wine and admiring the neighboring towns and Naples light up at night.

Saturday was another day that started of f slowly and calmly with coffee and sunshine.  Brad was the only one missing this time.  I got the special invite from John and Laurie to go to the recycle center of Monte di Procida! Apparently it's the best in the vicinity -- I must say I was impressed. The recycle center is really close to the port, so we drove down to the water, felt the sun beating down, and watched fishermen pull into the port, kids (who had to have been 12 years old) driving little boats around aimlessly and ladies sprawled out on the big rocks trying to begin the summer bronzing competition. 

We walked over to the other side after seeing a bunch of old men gathering around a fishing boat that had just pulled in.  He was selling fish right from the boat! Unfortunately, I got to see a bunch of octopi sliding out of the bucket and getting pushed and squished into clear plastic bags. They really grossed me out...I definitely didn't buy any to take home...when we did get home though; I started paper number two out of three. Meanwhile, John, the "master editor," was kind enough to edit my paper number one! Lucky me! Brad continued his music project for the day...in the comfort of his bed.  He finally emerged when it was time for left over pizza and beer (not left over) on the patio.  John, Laurie and I decided to go on an adventure afterwards. Brad was too focused on his music mission to come though. 

We drove into the town of Baia, and ended up on the glass bottom boat, Cymba, on a whim and almost by luck that it was leaving 3 minutes after we decided to board. It took us into the bay of Baia, in which we got a little history lesson about all the volcanoes and the sunken city, and got to see the area from a different perspective.  We then went toward the sunken city, and everyone descended into the bottom of the boat where we could see out of windows on either side! It was a bit rocky, but I kept it all down...however if anyone would've gotten sea sick, they would've been trapped down there, because of the close quarters and inability to go anywhere.  We got to see old roads, old parts of buildings, statues, and fish down there. It was really cool, it almost didn't seem real. 

After we got off the boat, we stopped and got some gelato, fabulous as always. Then we went to Baia Terme, It is an old Roman bathing area, along with other structures, homes, and areas to mingle among other town folk. It was about seven stories high and part of it was sunken, just as the city we saw underneath the ocean had.  Most of the lower levels had water inside.  It was really beautiful, and so large. It's still hard to imagine what all things old ruins looked like when they were fully roofed and standing because they already seem so immense.

Right when we got home, we all had to get ready for an early Cinco de Mayo celebration! Some other Americans that live in Monte di Procida had the little get together. As much as I love Italian food, there's still a lot of room in my heart for Mexican cuisine.  The couple that threw the celebration had a house with a roof top patio overlooking the ocean, so it was beautiful to watch the sunset. The Coronas were good, the margaritas were good and all the food was great too. I've missed the Mexican genre of food, drink and celebration.

Sunday started out with some paper writing, iTunes organizing, and coffee drinking again.   Despite writing so much, I couldn't complain being able to look at the Mediterranean Sea while writing. John and Laurie were invited to a birthday party at another American family's home. Since Brad had been working so much on his music project, he needed to start his papers, so I was the only one to accompany John and Laurie to the party. It was about a 20 minute drive to Brenda and Duke's house -- they were very kind and southern.

She cooked gumbo all day, shish kabobs, chocolate covered strawberries, along with an assortment of other southern and non-southern delicious snack, lunch and dessert items.  They had a very big house; it's not common to see them so big here in Italy.    When we got home we all gathered for our last cocktail hour on the patio, watching the sunset.  We drank bellinis (prosecco with peach juice). It was a sad feeling knowing that it was going to be our last time down in Monte di Procida, and then it started to sink in how close we were to the end of our Roman adventure.

Saturday the 2nd marked the "only two weeks left" day.  We decided to leave Monday instead of Sunday night, so there we went to sleep for the last time.  However, I had to wake up at 3 AM so that I could register for my fall classes at Chapman.  It seems crazy, but my register slot was for 6 PM California time, so I had to wake up super early.  It would've been more enjoyable if I didn't know that I had to wake up two hours later to leave for the train station, but oh well, it's all an adventure.  We'll miss the nice lifestyle at John and Laurie's Villa Rossi...and all the cats ;).

FYI - We have finals next week, so since we'll be busy studying and packing... you'll all have to wait for the final conclusion until the following week. Sorry! Ciao!

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Monday, April 27, 2009: Rome

Posted by Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jaime and Brad are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman Univer
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Terme di Caracalla Roman Baths & Museo Palazzo Venezia
Jaime and I, Queen and King of Frugality, did our best to take advantage of the free monuments in Rome for the week.  Monday, after Italian class, we hopped on the metro and traversed Southeast of the Coliseum to the Terme di Caracalla Roman Baths.  They were kind of gargantuan.  The Caracalla Baths were built between AD 212 and 216, during the reign of the Emperor Caracalla and could hold up to 1,600 Romans at one time.  At the time, there were fire heated pools, wrestling and boxing rooms, and black mosaic on white tiled floors within the massive brick arched structure. 

A work out center or gymnasium were ideas that I considered to be only of modern societies, yet the Romans figured it out long ago -- it's no wonder that their statues appear so muscular.  Wikipedia had said that the baths were the only structure to be damaged by the Abruzzo earthquake, but we could not really tell.  Between a hedge border and the ruined baths were fields of grass laden with buttercups, daisies, and clovers.  A picnic here would rival Villa Borghese if it did not cost three euro on any other given day.   Jaime and I  sat on a park bench and had a relaxing afternoon chat before Jaime headed back to the apartment and I went inside the free Coliseum to listen to some music and people watch in the drizzle. 

At the baths
Ben Harper
Ashley, Chris, Cassie and Brad getting ready for ben harper
Canale Monterano
Luisa in the wild
Brad in the caves
The Etruscan road
Roman Ruins on top
Carrie and Jaime hanging out on the ruins
Church
Tree inside church
Davide and Barbara next to their new home
Cassie in front of the Abbey
Ashley, Becca, and Jaime at Montecarlo

The next day, Tuesday, after The Italian Family class, we moseyed down the road to the Museo Palazzo Venezia which we speculated to be situated in an old palace.  Because of its close proximity to our apartment we agreed that we would avoid potential regret for not having visited it.  We marched up several grueling flights of stairs to the entrance, only to be sent right back down by the usher for not having a free ticket.   We thought it a rather absurd concept, but picked up our free tickets at the bottom of the stairs and returned at the top, sweaty and smiling.  It was a small museum but interesting, with early Christian paintings, and a large collection of porcelain dishes from all around the world.  We were glad we did not spend any money on it though.

Museo Capitolini & Ben Harper Concert
Wednesday, our infamous all-day day, was not a day spent locked in a classroom prison, but a day enjoyed in the Capitoline Museums by Piazza Venezia with our Art Therapy class.  After our Italian lecture, the five of us in Art Therapy class pocketed red, blue, and yellow pastels to make any combination of the spectral colors and took a stroll to the museum with paper in hand.  The museum was primarily white marble statues and bust profiles of Gods and Goddesses, emperors and warriors, which we took to interpreting artistically with color variation and personal style. 

Before coming to Rome and taking any art classes (beyond film courses), I had dabbled with a pen and pad in sketching.  I felt as though I was a decent artist, but after this semester, my skills have noticeably improved.  My art has loosened up, and consequently instead of cartoonish solid outlines of figures, I have learned to scribble more and work with swirls, lines, masses and contrasts.  Jaime had not taken any art classes beyond a high school freshman drawing course, but her ability to create figures using color pastels has far exceeded any expectations.  She is a talented artist, who I would pay to see an exhibit of at this point, so I hope that she continues creating after Rome. 

I have come to realize that most people claim that they are poor artists because they have not actually sat down and spent more than a few minutes trying to draw.  People get discouraged easily, but the art is inside of everyone and it's not the finished product that's important, it's the creative experience.  Life's not a process, it's a journey -- I have started calling my "To Do" lists, "To Enjoy" lists -- because that's what it's all about when it comes down to it. 

After hanging our masterpieces in the classroom, we remained in the room for Wines of Italy class.  The blistering hot Southern Puglian region wine even gave my nostrils a heated sensation when smelling the spicy aromas.  We learned of Sicilian wines as well, but the most interesting piece of information was about an illegal cheese from the Sardegna island of Italy.  It is left out to be digested by maggots before being eaten and digested by Sardegnans.  The cheese is illegal because of the obvious health hazards, but apparently it can be purchased on the black market if you are interested.

The wine tasting served as a nice precursor to the free Ben Harper concert for Earth Day located in Piazza del Popolo that night.  He had recently visited Africa as a demonstration and National Geographic was sponsoring the concert and broadcasting it online.  Ben Harper, if you are not familiar, is a popular Southern California modern rock musician who could be best described as "chill."

The piazza flooded with young people, jam packed shoulder to shoulder -- the first time we had really seen a large group of Italians our age.  A group from our wine class pushed our way through the mob, using other eager fans as lead blockers whenever possible.  We were about a third of the way in front -- good enough for Jaime, and I did not want to bounce to the front row and leave her with all the Italian boys.

An Italian mainstream rock band headlined, and we all jumped and yelled with the singing crowd.  Then Ben Harper walked out on stage and none of the Italians seemed to know that it was him, and consequently did not receive the ovation that he deserved.  So Jaime and I tried to make up for it and screamed our heads off for Harper.  A girl next to us collapsed to the ground, vomiting profusely and had to be carried out by medics. 

As the night rolled on, smoke filled the air with a haze that was sliced with colored laser lights.  Ben Harper ripped up the guitar and as my buds and I were doing our best defying earth's gravity and screaming up a storm while pumping fists towards the stars most of the Italians chattered carelessly, smoking their cigarettes and throwing their wine bottles on the ground.  So much for earth day.

I can't be too harsh though because there were select songs that the whole mass of people pulsated to in unified rhythm, especially the closing encore of Queen's "Under Pressure."  But our exit from Piazza del Popolo included a clanking of wine and beer bottles with every step; I'm glad we did not sprain ankles.  National Geographic planted enough trees to offset the carbon emissions from the concert as a demonstration, and Ben Harper donated 25,000 euro to the Abruzzo earthquake victims -- saying that earth day is not just about saving the planet, but about saving the people of the planet and treating each other right.  It was wild to see our Southern California musician in the middle of Rome, Italy ... and even crazier to hear an electric guitar and look up at the surrounding centuries old domed churches and obelisks.
 
I stayed up all night finishing a Film and Mafia class presentation of a chapter of Cosa Nostra, our book about the Sicilian mafia, only to get to LdM the next morning  and find that I could not open my PowerPoint on the computer.  I spent half an hour trying to engineer a solution before putting my masculine pride aside and asking for help -- which I received immediately, but was nevertheless, too late to present to the class.  We watched "Il Divo" and after class had to skip the Planetario (Planetarium) because it was not open.  So we retired to the couch for a lazy day of not a whole lot.

Jaime
Friday was our "Into the Wild" excursion with LdM's Italian Club.  Originally we were going to go to a national park in the Abruzzo regions, however, that is the region in which the earthquake happened (there wasn't damage to the park, but it was recommended by many not to go).  So, the plans changed and we went to Canale Monterano, which is about 50 km north of Rome. 

We were supposed to be at the school at 8:45 am to get on the bus, but, like we should have expected, we were some of the first students there on time, and apparently 25 minutes early according to Italian standards. Barbara and Davide were there sometime after 9, but the bus didn't even arrive until about 9:30. 

The bus ride was about 1 ½ hours to the location.  The bus dropped us off at the entrance to the natural park, and we started to follow the trail. The professor for the ‘Ancient Rome' class, Massimo, was our guide. The trail first led us to a little waterfall that fell into a sulfur stream.  Well, the rocks were all sulfur I guess.  It was a big area to mine sulfur back in the day, so every once in a while we got hungry for hard boiled eggs on the hike for some reason.   

I didn't feel like I was anywhere near Rome or even in Italy for that matter on our little adventure in the wilderness. It wasn't the typical picture that you expect when you think of Italy.  The trail wound around trees and moss covered rocks.  There were so many trees that the sun hardly shone through on the trail.  Everything was so green and earthy looking and the air smelled so fresh. It was SO nice to get a break from the city. 

The trail then led out of the forest and back across the stream where we got to go into some old caves that were once used for mining. It was pretty musty and somewhat scary inside, but we made it out alive!  After that we walked up a hill leading to some old ruins. We got to walk through an ancient Etruscan road that was carved through a giant boulder, it was really narrow, but then again, they didn't have cars back then.

At the top of the 15 minute climb, we made it to some Roman ruins built on top of Etruscan civilization.   It was really pretty, especially seeing them in a different setting, rather than the city.  The artist Bernini did a lot of work on the ruins that we saw up there. We continued on to another old church that now has a big tree growing inside. 

When we started to leave on the trail back to the bus, Brad and I were walking next to each other, and I looked down and saw a brown snake, about 1-2 inches in diameter, but I am terrified of snakes, so I couldn't spit out quick enough "BRAD DON'T STEP ON THE SNAKE,' but he did ,and I saw the snake open his mouth in anger, which sent me on a sprint across the field...followed by many other screaming girls. 

Massimo told us that the brown snakes in this area are vipers; that really put a damper on the last 10 minutes of the hike for me, especially hearing some hissing in t he bushes on the way back.  We finally made it to the bus without any snake bites and drove to a town close, where Massimo coaches rugby and we got to eat lunch at the club house at the rugby field.

After lunch, a couple of us learned how to play rugby.  It was really fun, but it's definitely not my sport.  A few of us walked up to a palace in the middle of the town which was really pretty, and looked more French than Italian.  There was also an art exhibit on display.  We left for Rome around 7 pm and made plans to meet all the students that went on the trip for dinner. 

We met around 10 and went to THE Montecarlo that we hear our classmates talking about all the time.  It did end up living up to our expectations fortunately. We drank a lot of house wine and ate a lot of incredible pizza. After that, we went around the corner to a pub called Abbey Theater and had a drink, and then decided we were all too tired to really continue ‘going out.' I went to some other girls' apartment and had a little girl sleepover, and Brad went off with another guy for the night and stayed up watching the Red Sox vs. Yankees game all night. 

The next day we wasted a good amount of the day sleeping and were not too productive. Sunday however, we spent all day working on a project/presentation about pasta for the Italian Family class. The unfortunate part about the end of the semester right now is I filled out my planner and realized that we have a quiz, a paper, homework, a presentation or a final every single school day until we go home.  We'll be desperately trying to find time for fun stuff. 

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Monday, April 20, 2009: Rome

Posted by Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jaime and Brad are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman Univer
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on Monday, 20 April 2009
in Spring 2009: Jaime & Brad Kuntz

Jaime: Museo Nazionale delle Arti e Tradizioni Popolari
Tuesday instead of meeting In the class room for our Italian Family class, we met at the Museo Nazionale delle Arti e Tradizioni Popolari (National Museum of Popular Art and Tradition) in Rome. It was located about 9 metro stops from our apartment, so it was in a very different part of Rome than we are used to. Apparently it was built during Fascist times so everything is very boxy and modern looking.

I didn't feel like I was in Rome. I really enjoyed this museum -- which isn't common for me. We entered into the museum with the class and practically woke the ticket lady up because it is not a very popular or often visited museum; it was comical, especially seeing her turn on all the lights in the museum for us.

Sicilian farming cart
Antique Venetian Gondola
Principe Pallavicini Vineyard & Winery Owner
The history lesson
Jaime and steel fermentation tanks
Loads of oak barrels
Jaime and her massive oak barrels
Luisa, Jaime, and Brad tasting
Brad and Dave hanging out
Dave and Barbara on the Ferry to Ventotene
Driving from the port on the skinny road
Dave at our hotel
Atillio-the island's crazy resident, reciting poetry to our table
The group
The entrance into the aqueduct
Inside the aqueduct
Painting in the aqueduct done by a slave-depicting exactly where they were under the island
Beautiful view from the island
Us 4
Jaime with her weird Brother who has cactus hands
Cocktail hour!
Morning view
The boats on the beach
Trying to shield the boys from the rain
Wow!
Trying to stay warm and dry
Finally some sunshine in time for our departure!
Ciao SUNNY Ventotene!

The museum had all original items on display from all parts of Italy showing what outfits looked like for certain events, like a wedding, and comparing them with items from the North and the South. There were tools of men for agriculture and women's tools for sewing on display as well as what a typical room of a child might look like. We got to see an antique Venetian gondola, an old wine press, an old olive press, and many antique religious items.

Our teacher knew quite a bit about the things that we were looking at, which was a relief since all the write-ups were in Italian. I loved seeing the differences between the North and the South. The North was very straight, proper and dark while the South seemed more free, bright and dimensional.

Brad: Principe Pallavicini Vineyard & Winery
More wine flows out of Italy than any country in the world: over a billion gallons every year. On Wednesday, instead of our typical laborious ten hour routine class schedule, our wine tasting class had the good fortune to play hooky and take a field trip to a Roman vineyard and winery in the town of Colonna, about an hour east of Rome.

We boarded the short bus after Italian class and chartered our way through the rolling Roman country side until rows of trellised budding grape vines zoomed past our windows like short contorted soldiers charging back to sack Rome. We had crossed over into vineyard country.

The sky was blue, the sun was beating, and all I could see in any direction was bubbling grassy fields of grape vines crawling even up the mountains that border Abruzzo. Our class gathered around our vineyard guide, the owner -- a middle aged Italian man, with a scraggly grey beard and short hair, a button up collared shirt with the sleeves rolled up and the top button loosened, pressed khakis held up with a leather belt, pointed toed leather shoes, and a smoldering cigar in hand at all times. The wine industry is not an easy business, but I could not help but think that this guy lives the textbook definition of the good life.

The noble Pallavicini family descended from the marriage of the niece of Cardinal Lazzaro Pallavicini to the great grandson of Clement IX. The family and land have been in the Lazio region since the 1600's. The vineyard is a medium size for Italy -- 500,000 bottles every year, which only seems modest when compared to vineyards that produce 3,000,000 bottles.

Most winemakers in Lazio (the Italian region in which Rome resides) focuses wine production on quantity over quality because of the wine consumption in Rome that could be likened to the canned beer consumption in the United States. But Principe Pallavicini defies the standards and experiments with varietal grape blends and quality aging and vinification techniques.

I saw the endless vineyard, now it was time to learn the Pallavicini wine making process. I leaned over the railing and looked down into the giant metal trough where red grapes are shuffled downwards into a horizontal spinning drill bit of a blade. The entire building had an aroma of raw earthy grapes and skins. The crushed red grapes are shuttled through pipes to humongous temperature controlled steel tanks to be fermented with yeasts and re-pressed. The white wine tank, on the other hand, gently extracts the juices from the grapes using an inflating balloon without mixing in grape skins in order to maintain its tannin-less composition before fermentation.

Our guide pulled out his long wine key and opened up a hobbit-like wooden cellar door leading underground into the oak aged wines. Rows of oak barrels lined the dimly lit, musty, damp, chilly cellar entrance. The smell reminded me of my grandmother's basement -- my favorite scent in the world. I could have gotten lost in the labyrinth of barrels and arched tunnels -- which were once part of the Roman aqueduct. We were lead to a room with barrels ten feet high that could probably hold two hot tubs full of wine (not recommended).

The bus shuttled us to the business edifice, where a dusty passageway of cobwebbed bottles and barrels led us to a room with a raised plaid tablecloth, adorned with crystal glasses, a multitude of three bottled wine selections, cheese platters, pizza squares, and bread with the olive oil made by Principe Pallavicini. We tasted a white, red, and passito desert wine. All three were delicious, so Jaime and I were sure to buy eight bottles to last us for at least the week! After learning so much in lectures, it was a great experience to see the wine making process first hand, from the vineyard to crushing and fermentation to bottling and drinking!

Jaime: L'isola di Ventotene
It was finally time for another LdM field trip! This time the school organized a trip to Ventotene Island.  Originally we were scheduled to travel to Ischia Island, but our amazing student adviser, Barbara, decided to take us to Ventotene Island instead because she had been there before and knew it wasn't quite as touristy.

We were so happy with her decision. Only Brad, another boy from our school, Dave, and I signed up to go, so the four of us met in Termini train station a little before 7 am and took a train to Formia, then we walked about 10 minutes to the port where we found our ferry to take us on a two hour adventure to Ventotene Island.

It was still pretty early in the morning so we managed to stay out in the open air for a short while until we got too chilly. When we arrived to the island there were only beautiful views to be seen. Little fishing and row boats were parked on the beach and in the port, everything was green and flowering and the water was so clear, turquoise and deep yet we could almost always see to the bottom.

A van from our hotel was waiting right outside the port. The driver was a typical Italian guy in his late 20's who had clearly lived on the island his whole life. The first road we drove on around the port was actually pretty frightening because it was so narrow and we were basically driving between a rock cliff wall and then the port on the other side. Many times I thought our wheels were off the road and that we were going to splash in the water at any moment.

We were in absolute awe when we arrived to our bright white hotel, L'Hotel Calabattaglia, overlooking the ocean. There were palm trees and flowers everywhere; it seemed like a typical Mediterranean getaway location. We all got rooms with our own patio and lounge chairs and views of the ocean.

Here's the catch though-it wasn't quite as sunny as it had been in Italy for the last three weeks, of course. Saturday it wasn't terrible weather by any means, however, it wasn't the bikini weather we had hoped for, although the sunshine did make a few appearances. We walked around the island by ourselves for a few hours and stopped to get lunch in one of the only town squares.

After that we met up with a woman who used to live on Ventotene and she gave us a little tour of the island. We learned that there are only about 200-300 inhabitants that almost exclusively survive on the tourism industry. The island, like many in this area, was formed by a volcano and was inhabited by the Romans. In fact, the king of Naples made people move to the island to start getting it more populated.

With the tour guide we walked to the very center of the island, uphill, and it only took 15 minutes-I'm sure you all can get an idea how small it is. We got to tour an old Roman aqueduct that was underneath the very center of the island. It was amazing actually being able to walk inside and see the old waterline still in the wall. When it wasn't used as an aqueduct anymore, monks and slaves lived inside (separate times) so we could see old drawings and paintings done by them.

She then took us to the old castle in town where the archeological museum is now. There were mostly items that were found in the ocean like amphorae and old Roman anchors as well as many items from a house, or should I say mansion, that Augustus owned. We were all pretty exhausted by the end of the tour, especially because we all woke up so early, so we went back to our hotel and all took a quick nap before our cocktail hour on the patio with some prosecco that we bought in town.

Dinner was served in the hotel's restaurant also looking over the sea. We were served typical dishes of the island, all including sea food (curry rice with shrimp and a fish dish). It was delicious though and very fun. After dinner we had some more prosecco and Italian beer, taught Barbara some American card games and called the night pretty early.

The next morning I woke up to soothing yet overall disappointing taps on the roof. Yes, it was rain and wind hence the name of the island VENTOtene (vento meaning wind). The storm was gorgeous and the color of the ocean was so different from the day before, but it sort of cut into our plans for the day.

So over breakfast at the hotel we discussed our options and opted to explore the island regardless. The original plan was to take a little boat to Santo Stefano Island where an abandoned prison is, that was in use until the 1960's that was designed by Ferdinand IV King of Naples in the 1700‘s; however the rain made it impossible so we walked around the island for a while and figured out that nothing is open when it rains and there is nowhere to go when it rains. Luckily the café where we ate the day before was open and we got to enjoy hot tea and cappuccinos for a few hours.

We got brave and ventured off to find another restaurant for lunch, failed miserably, got soaked and returned to the same café for more warm drinks and lunch. Good thing we enjoyed our lunch the day before. As Barbara predicted, an hour before we needed to be back at the ferry the sun came out so we enjoyed a few last moments at the port until it was time to get on the ferry back to Formia to catch the train to Rome.

Before we got on the train we stopped at "Pazza Pizza," which translates to "Crazy Pizza," and we got some excellent pizza by the slice to hold us off for the trip home. It was such a fun and relaxing trip despite the one day of bad weather. I can't wait to come back in the future...in the summer.

Brad: Rome's Birthday!
This week is the 2,762nd birthday of Rome so not only do I feel extremely young as an American citizen but also all the state monuments and museums are free so Jaime and I are rushing to take advantage of every one that we can. While the rain drenched us in Ventotene Island Sunday morning, the rain soaked the gladiators and street performers in a parade down Via Fori Imperiali in front of our apartment.

When we returned, I heard through the grapevine that there was going to be a nighttime visual light show on the Mercato di Traiano where we had visited with our Spanish friends the week before. Jaime was exhausted and stayed in, but I grabbed my iPod and swung on my father's old pea coat and walked down the road to check it out.

The ruins lining the street were colorfully illuminated with various hues of light. The Foro di Augusto ruins in front of our apartment were bright blue, the Coliseum down the street glowed incandescent gold as always, the Foro Romano was illuminated bright white, and the Egyptian hieroglyphic engraved obelisk next to the Traiano Market altered between lime green and sky blue.

As a film student, I was particularly thrilled that the brick arched Mercato di Traiano walls served as an IMAX size projection screen. I stood among the crowd of Italian locals scattered with tourists and waited, glancing among the colored magical monuments and twinkling stars in the sky. Couples cuddled along the railings and an orchestra hummed over the loudspeaker in the background.

Then the lights blackened and a spotlight focused inward on a white grand piano. On the bench sat the smiling Italian master of the ceremony, casually playing and introducing the show into the microphone. All at once the orchestra intensified, thunder cracked, and a projected Poseidon appeared on the tower above the market as the ruins glowed blue and an ocean swayed on the screen below him. Chariot races from clips of Ben-Hur zoomed across the screen, and still statues of Roman battle scenes were brought to life with camera motion.

Then Rome fell.

Fire burned the bottom of the screen and red lights heated the walls as an opera singer bellowed powerfully. White-cloaked and hooded women brought candles forth and laid them in the archways.

Jesus took Poseidon's position at the high tower and below was a montage of close ups of Michelangelo's Last Judgment frescoe in the Sistine Chapel. A demon pulled downwards at the feet of a terrified man, holding his wide-eyed face. The flayed skin of St. Bartholomew sagged in the hands of a bearded muscular figure. Then images and video clips of the pope were followed with loud respectful cheers from the crowd.

The screen cut out and purple and gold lights introduced a contemporary spinning ballet couple arguing and dancing while the M.C. tapped the piano keys. Jesus was replaced by a massive image of a full moon on the tower and the piano man played in Italian "On an Evening in Roma" with an Italian beauty in a sparkling gown sitting on the table and singing the accompaniment.

There were scenes from classical Italian films such as the beloved Alberto Sordi shoveling spaghetti in "Un Americano a Roma," or lovers whizzing across Rome on a motorbike in "Roman Holiday" going to La Bocca Della Verita and timidly putting hands in the mouth that Jaime and I had recently visited.
The muffled boos from the young Italians standing next to me during a political speech was reversed into an eruption of applause when red white and green lights led up the arches to a giant Italian flag waving on screen followed by images of Italy winning the soccer world cup in 2006.

From an academic standpoint, I would say that this amazing performance reinforced ideological Italian culture, and from a personal standpoint I would say I was slightly overwhelmed with emotion that I have to leave Italian culture in less than a month. Arrivederci!

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Monday, April 13, 2009: Rome

Posted by Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jaime and Brad are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman Univer
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on Monday, 13 April 2009
in Spring 2009: Jaime & Brad Kuntz

Jaime
Showing Carla and Ari Around
Well we didn't get much down time before the next extravaganza in our Roman lives! After Italian class on Monday my great friend, Carla, from my class in Barcelona came to visit me (and Brad) with her friend Ari for the week. I waited for them at the train station hoping they could understand the directions I gave them from the airport to Termini station. As I waited I noticed that the crowds have quadrupled in size over the past two to three weeks. Luckily I gave sufficient directions and it was so exciting to see Carla step off the Leonardo Express after two years apart.

I must admit my speaking Spanish was a little rusty since I don't have any of my minor related Spanish classes and because I've been learning Italian for this whole semester, but everything worked out after a day. Right after I took them to the apartment I guided them to the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain-things that everyone must see and that I've seen about a dozen times now! I gave them each three American pennies to toss in, so looks like they'll return to Rome someday!

Dance Party
The 4 of us in the Ice Club
The 4 of us in our igloo
Brad and Jaime in Ice Club
Jaime in Ice Club
Ari, Carla and Brad in Ice Club
Brad twirling on ice
Ari and Carla with their Italian pizza near Piazza Navona
Brad, Carla and Ari skipping to the Coliseum
Carla securing her trip back
Jaime, Carla and Ari at Trevi at night
All 4 of us with night lit Trevi
Carla, Jaime and Ari at the park in Quirnarle
Climbing trees!
Us 4 in Villa Borghese
Carla and Ari with our tortilla de patatas
Having fun
Castel Sant'Angelo
Piazza del popolo
Brad and Jaime in Mercati di Traiano
Poppy flowers in the Mercati di Traiano courtyard
Jaime and Carla on top of the Mercati di Traiano
Jaime and Brad at "La Boca della Verita"
Carla, Jaime and Ariadna--Principesa ti Amo!
Piazza Navona
Castello Sant'Angelo
Saint Peter's Basilica at the Vatican
Jaime and Brad with the magnificent Athena visitors, Stacy and John Benander.

They're excitement was very cute and infantile when they saw these sights. Like for most everyone, they're places that you always hear about or see pictures of, so to see them in real life is incredible. After wandering through the masses of people we got some gelato and walked to a park near Quirnarle (where the President lives). The purple flowers, I believe they're called wisteria, were gorgeous and so aromatic! We relaxed and took pictures there until the sunset.

Since Brad and I had class, the girls did a lot of sightseeing on their own. However after a long day of class on Wednesday, we all decided to eat dinner, drink some wine (weird I know) and then run down to the Trevi Fountain to see it at night. It was so beautiful despite the crowd that never seems to die down there. Thursday morning Brad and I did have a couple issues waking up for class after the big Trevi adventure, but we made it and were very pleasantly surprised when we came home to a tortilla de patatas that our Catalan girls made for us.

Tortilla de patatas was my favorite dish to eat when I lived in Spain, so I was so ecstatic and very grateful to be presented with it as it is very difficult to make, I can honestly say that I've never been successful making one. It is similar to a really thick omelet with potatoes and onions inside, so not as much egg as an omelet. I then taught the girls how to make peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, even though ½ pint of Skippy costs over €3 here.

We packed up some other food items, a blanket and we were on our way to Villa Borghese for an afternoon picnic. It changed so much already since I had last been there about a month ago. Trees were now different colors and had different blooms, everything was so green and a blanket of daisies covered the grassy hills. The girls loved the PB&J (the reason I made it in the first place is because Carla has to bring a typical American dish to one of her classes next week) and the tortilla was just as fabulous as I had remembered.

Brad dug his head into Harry Potter and we girls went on a little adventure. We walked towards the Galleria Borghese but the tickets were all sold out to get into the museum unfortunately, so then we walked towards the zoo making little stops to check out the different landscapes. We found a really interesting tree, so we climbed it and set the camera on self-timer. Then it started to rain-of course the day we decide to have an outdoorsy day in the park. We covered our heads with our scarves and walked back to Brad as quickly as we could and found him still trying to read, hunching over the book.

The rain died down quickly, but we decided to move on and ended up in Piazza del Popolo which is a very large square with a fountain in the middle, herds of people wandering, men trying to sell you roses, a view of Villa Borghese, and many churches, one which includes some Caravaggio paintings. We sat and watched the people go by, especially the ones riding around on Segways and Carla and Ari had to have a picture on top of one of the lions in the fountain area.

We stopped off to buy some Lambrusco, let it chill while we made dinner and then started the dance party to mostly new songs by Brittany Spears and other pop artists that Spanish girls love so much. It was a blast and we ended up teaching the "Crank that" dance by Soulja Boy -- they couldn't WAIT to show Barcelona what they learned.

The next event was honestly the highlight of my week. Two words: Ice Club. The Ice Club is Rome's only club/bar made completely of ice! It's right down the street from our apartment and it was ladies night, so we just had to pay the cover charge and then it was open bar (we obviously snuck drinks to Brad). After we paid we got the introduction and one of the employees draped heavy silver capes over our backs that velcroed up the front and slipped large fleece gloves on all of us. We were now ready to enter; the only way to get into the icy bar is to be locked in between the two doors from the lobby to the bar, then you get buzzed into the arctic room of fun and magic.

I felt like I was in Disneyland, only better and I know I'm not the only one who was overwhelmed with excitement. Everything is made of ice, even the glasses that you drink out of. The ice benches were covered with polar bear like hides and the bar changed a different color about every 10-15 seconds. One of the bartenders was actually from Spain living in Rome, so that was fun for the girls to be able to converse with him.

We found a little igloo to spend most of our night in, trying many different exotic cocktails and listening to music. You could say that we got wild, we got cold and ended up taking about 200 pictures of our new sub-zero experience. At closing time we finally had to go out into the real world which felt so warm and we didn't feel like calling it a night quite yet so what did we do? We skipped to the Coliseum. Just a short session to see it lit up and watch some people go by and then we called it a night.

Brad
When I woke up Friday afternoon, I was not sure if the intense pain throbbing in my head was from trying to think so much in Spanish, singing too loudly while skipping to the Coliseum, or from post-brain freeze trauma when I ate my ice glass, though I would not doubt that it had something to do with the free vodka the girls had brought me. After forcing down a few cups of water and a shower we moseyed down the road to see the Mercato di Traiano and Museo dei Fori Imperiali, something Jaime and I walk past every day on the way to classes, but had yet been inside. We looked at some neat archaeological artifacts -- statue remnants mostly -- in the Museo dei Fori Imperiali, then delved deeper.

The Mercato di Traiano was immense. It was here that I gained a true appreciation for ingenuity of the arch and its ability to enable windows, doorways, and multiple floor levels. Roman brick archways teamed around the base of a semicircular courtyard and stacked into higher levels -- proof of the brilliance of ancient architects and of contemporary Rome's zest and ability to preserve its history. We could only imagine a loud bustling market full of Romans haggling for their wine, vegetables, seafood, olives, and bread. Now it is silent and barren, crumbling bones of a dead civilization. An abundance of dazzling ruby red poppy flowers gather in patches throughout the ruined courtyard, surrounding fallen pillars like roses laid around tombstones.

Some of the most beautiful views looking down on sunny Rome were from the pinnacle of the Traiano Market. We walked on. Down the hill, beyond Piazza Venezia, and to the Boca della Verita -- "The Mouth of Truth" located at the base of the Santa Maria in Cosmedin church. The large flat round statue is an old man's face carved of marble with a flowing beard, hollowed eyes and an open mouth. Beginning in the middle ages, it was believed that if one told a lie with their hand in the Boca della Verita, that it would be bitten off.

Jaime and I approached it cautiously and she gently set her hand inside. I shoved my entire fist and forearm down its throat and said, "I'm going to fall in love some day." All my appendages are still intact, so I suppose it's not a lie. And to narrow things down a bit, I decided soon thereafter that the perfect woman for me is like a cactus plant -- very sharp and low maintenance.

We zipped through oncoming traffic and marched to Campo de Fiori, a touristy drunk young American bar spot by night, and a Roman flower market by day. An erect central statue of Giordano Bruno, condoles the spot where he was burnt at the stake in 1600 by the Catholic Church for his heretic views of a heliocentric solar system and infinite universe among other things. This was not easy to try to explain this in Spanish after three years without classes. The Barcelona guapas got the simplified version.

Upon entering Piazza Navona a street performer was wearing a ridiculous outfit and loudly blowing a whistle as he made a fool of himself in front of a massive crowd. While at the same time, a man close by was softly playing the guitar and beautifully singing Bob Dylan to nobody but the occasional passerby and the wind. As my mother might say, "sometimes the squeaky wheel gets greased," even if they are talentless whistle blowers. I opted to listen to Knocking on Heaven's Door as we gazed up past the Egyptian obelisk and domed cathedral towards heavenly clouds in the sky. We were famished, so we slumped into chairs at a pizzeria across the street to gorge some Roman pizza.

I improvised up some blues to sing as we strolled along the rolling dirty Tavere River -- a whirlpool of garbage and soccer balls swirling at the base of its tiny waterfall. We walked past a woman staring into the river and huge pink graffiti bubble letters saying Principessa ti Amo! -- "Princess I Love You." Up some rank stairs we climbed, and crossed over the water on a bridge guarded by statues of angels to Castello Sant'Angelo. It was originally commissioned by Emporer Hadrian as a mausoleum for him and his family in 135 and converted to a military fortress in 401. Bruno was imprisoned here for six years at one point.

It was not long that we looked up at the exterior of the massive castle fortress before a choir boomed through the Vatican streets to our ears. We looked towards St. Peter's and walked towards the mesmerizing sound without reason. Our circle of friends entered the square and sat in the off-center, listening to the soft oscillating call and response of the Priests and choir and watching the sun blaze through the wisps of clouds in the sky behind St. Peter's Basilica while the mass was televised on the large screens outside. It's hard not to believe in a God when you see something as beautiful as this -- who would one be thankful towards?

If it had not been for the Metro's convenient proximity, I may have slept there in the middle of the square, but we made it home to our apartment and opted for a night in with some gnocchi with pesto parmesan sauce and a few bottles of wine that Carla and I had to haggle all throughout the neighborhood for -- dodging the Coliseum crowd leaving from the Pope's stations of the cross.

The Barca ladies had to wake up particularly early, so I said my woeful goodbyes the night before, with promises of reading their Hollywood magazines as Spanish homework. We had such a blast with them -- some of the kindest people I know and so full of life. They left us a nice note and some tortillas patatas to say thank you!

Saturday and Sunday
After the Barca girls left, we were exhausted, but this was no excuse for the laziness that we would bestow upon the couch for the weekend. On Saturday, Jaime and I slept in and upon awakening crawled immediately onto the uncomfortable couch and opened our laptops with our pajamas on. We basically sat there with pillows under our seats for the next two and a half days, without showering, barely eating, and only stopping to sleep. My back is permanently ruined from the couch, and my brain is swollen with philosophy, cosmology, and the universe.

Even Easter was spent on the couch, with almonds and white wine for our special dinner. I smelled terrible, and sported a layer of grease on my face that would put McDonalds to shame. The complete veg-session was necessary, but started to get out of hand; thankfully the noble President of Athena came to our rescue.

On Monday night, Jaime and I were lucky enough to meet up with John and Stacy Benander, the President and founder of Athena Study Abroad. We finally cleaned ourselves up and got off the couch and met up in Trastevere in front of the Santa Maria church. Luckily they had seen our passport photos when we applied because we had no idea who to be looking for.

It was great to finally meet after all of our correspondence. We decided to take a casual stroll and eat wherever we landed -- almost anywhere is good to eat in Rome. We walked past the same annoying whistling street performer that we had seen in Piazza Navona, with another massive crowd surrounding him.

We ended up at a cute restaurant with a table for four covered in a plaid tablecloth. Although we had no idea what it was, Stacy and I decided we would order the Fettucine Trasteverina -- "When in Trastevere!" Of course our meals were delicious, and we were able to talk about our experiences in Rome and travelling around Europe, the great aspects of the program, and the fun things that we still have left to do.

We had a lovely time, they were such a nice couple -- although we already knew this from the great assistance we had received in order to get to Rome in the first place! We parted ways as John and Stacy were headed northward the next day to check up on the newly instated Venice campus, and Jaime and I went back home and sat on our couch.

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Monday, April 6, 2009: Rome

Posted by Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jaime and Brad are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman Univer
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on Monday, 06 April 2009
in Spring 2009: Jaime & Brad Kuntz

Jaime
Monday: Chocolate factory and arrival of family
Monday was a day for waking up a bit earlier than we had been for most of spring break because we got the opportunity to tour a chocolate factory in downtown Naples! The daylight savings time change was on Sunday night and Brad had forgotten to change the time on his cell phone (which he also uses as a watch).  Laurie and I were telling him to get out of bed, but he wasn't budging so we finally had to order him out of bed because he thought it was an hour earlier than it was and he was very baffled why we were waking him up so early. Once he realized that he had forgotten he got right out and was ready for the adventure.

We met up with a small group of other Navy wives that Laurie knows and then caravanned to the Gay Odin Chocolate Factory.  It was very impressive to watch their driving skills in the chaos of Neapolitan traffic and being able to stick with each other.  We parked in a parking garage and walked for about 10 minutes until we arrived to the factory.  As soon as we walked through the doors the aroma of chocolate took over our senses.  We met the current owner of the factory and he explained a little bit about the history. 

An abundance of chocolate Easter eggs!
Jaime and Brad with chocolate factory worker
 
Dad walking through a Cuma ruin archway
Mom and Laurie dolloping ravioli filling
Everybody watching mariella with the fried egglplant
The siblings eating the food everybody prepared!
Dad walking in front of the Royal Palace in Caserta
Walking along the 2 mile pond in the Royal Palace courtyard
Walking through Caserta Vecchia
Jaime and Kevin eating lunch on the coast
Bone church in Naples
Kevin in the underground Roman market in Naples
Inside Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri

The factory has been owned by his family since the 1960s however the factory was established in 1922.  There were a lot of the old machines and tools decorating the entrance to the factory and it was filled with chocolate Easter eggs ready to be sold.  We took about a 30 minute tour through the factory. It was actually a lot smaller than I had expected but still a decent size.  We got to see and learn about every process from the cocoa bean to the final product.  We of course got to try some of the fresh chocolate just made, watch workers decorate the Easter eggs, watch the ladies hand filling individual chocolates, gawk at the 1000's of chocolate eggs and other molds waiting to be decorated and wrapped, and see how much dedication and time is put into this quality chocolate.  The demand for chocolate eggs is high during this Easter season.  Their chocolate is only sold from the factory, at one of their 10 stores in Naples, or in a store each in Rome and Milan. 

When we were finished with the tour we bought some chocolate and waited for a phone call from our Mom because they had landed in Rome around 8 am but were going to take the train into Naples. We finally got the call around one of the rush hours, but Laurie's husband John beat us to the train station so we had to wait another hour to actually see them.  It was a great reunion, it had been a little over two months that we hadn't seen them but it seemed like longer, maybe because we are farther away. 

Brad and our younger brother Kevin naturally attached at the hip again and quickly engaged in their goofy games and philosophical discussions. After everyone got settled in we went for a nice long walk through the town of Monte di Procida through narrow streets passing locals, churches and children playing outside. We came to a lookout (John and Laurie call it ‘Mary Mary Belvedere' because of a statue of Mary here) over the water that had a view of the islands of Ischia and Procida, so we stayed for a while and enjoyed the weather and the view. When we walked back Brad and Kevin decided to play hacky sack in the drive way and then convinced my mom and me to join in.  That evening we had a nice and relaxing dinner, drank some wine and enjoyed being together again.

Tuesday: Cuma ruins
Tuesday we had a nice relaxing morning. Brad and Kevin slept in as teenage boys tend to do.  The rest of us drank coffee, read, and just hung out outside enjoying the sunshine.  Finally in the early afternoon we made it out the door and drove to Cuma which is about a 20-25 minute drive from John and Laurie's house.  We squeezed all six of us in Laurie's little Alfa Romeo (John was working) and arrived to the ancient ruins of Cuma. 

It was an ancient Greek settlement of about 8th century BC that is now a major archeological area as well as a touristic site.  There were many tunnels and views down to more tunnels underneath the ground upon which we stood.  There was a very interestingly shaped tunnel, more or less in the shape of a triangle with its tip cut off which led to and was part Sybl's sanctuary. Sybl was a priestess that ruled over the area and was considered a prophet. 

We walked around some ruins of old homes and walked up an original cobblestone Roman road where we could still see the divots left by their  chariots.  Everything was beautiful and green from all the previous rain but we got lucky and stood in sunshine except for one rainfall that lasted three minutes in which it was still sunny out. 

Brad
Wednesday: Pozzuoli Flavian Amphitheatre and Mariella's cooking class
In the morning, Laurie and my Dad rented a silver boxy eight passenger van and our family and crew drove a short distance from Monte di Procido to the Pozzuoli Flavian Amphitheatre, the third largest Roman amphitheatre in Italy.  It served as a reminder that gladiator culture existed all over Italy in Roman times and not just in Rome's Coliseum.  Likely, it was constructed by the same architects that erected the coliseum, and it had a very similar appearance.    

Unlike at the Coliseum in Rome, we were allowed to walk on the sunken center ground where the gladiators fought, which Kevin and I utilized not only to battle with a hacky sack, but also made it easier to put ourselves in ancient shoes.  I stood in the center under a light drizzle and looked up at the crumbling weathered stands and imagined a heavy helm matting a roaring crowd after a victory.  It seems to me that gladiator culture still exists today -- there is no way that the plethora of Americans watch NASCAR for any reason but the crashes. 

We drove back to Monte di Procido for a cooking class with Mariella at La Taverna dei Sapori, excited to learn from the chef of some of the best food we had eaten in Italy.  Pepe uncorked a jug of wine and poured glasses for us to sip on while we cooked.  We beat eggs in a volcano of flour on the counter and rolled out sheets of our homemade pasta then dotted half the sheet with dollops of ricotta, parmesan and basil filling.  We folded it over, sealed it, and clamped the raviolis with cookie cutter serrated shapes. 

Mariella also instructed us how to make eggplant parmesan, a white wine mushroom beef dish, and chocolate lava cake -- all of which we sat down to eat in a lovely dinner after preparing ourselves.  My stomach was on the brink of explosion only after the second of five courses, but thankfully Mariella let us taste her homemade limoncello as a post desert digestif.  It was fabulous to eat together with our family in Italy as it is such an important part of Italian culture. 

Thursday: Caserta & Caserta Vecchia
The next day we drove to the U.S. Navy hospital on the base in Naples so that Jaime could get some cold medicine.  Walk-ins were closed so she had a bracelet strapped to her wrist and was ushered into the emergency room.   It seemed unnecessary but a cold from late night London partying is nasty when it lasts for over a week.  On base we all met up with our parents' old friend from the Navy, Cheryl, and ate at Subway -- good ole American sandwiches. 

It was a golden clear sunny day and we slipped into our gargantuan van and motored to the city of Caserta.  Street vendors lined the fences guarding the maze of hedges in front of the 18th century Royal Palace.  We passed through the palace to a grassy courtyard two miles long with a slightly sloping road on either side of the stretch of fish laden pond that ran its entire length.    Marble statues secured the edge of the hedge of the gardens but were marked with mild graffiti that my dad thought particularly rude. 

My brother Kevin and I had a nice philosophical conversation while the fish followed us up the road towards the waterfall that fed the pond.  We elicited a beautiful rhythmic hacky sack session at the top that received onlooker applause so we agreed to perform for a living.  Travelling towards the palace, the fast pace walk of my Dad, brother and I dominated the girls' as we discussed Montana household projects and random science along the road. 

The inside of the Royal Palace was majestic.  Over a thousand rooms and we only had time to see a fraction of lavish gold and marble-heavy habitats.  There were couches like stretch limousines that several people could have slept on head to toe, marble fireplaces, ceiling paintings, gold pagan statues, and libraries of giant paged books. 

Following Caserta was Caserta Vecchia (Old Caserta) which was the thousand year old medieval town on top of the hill.  Everybody ordered cokes or cappuccinos at a café and we met up with John for the sunset.  I felt strange trying to capture such a magnificent sight on a camera, so I only took one picture.  Hungry dogs followed us all over town until we faded into stone cathedrals.  Kevin and I played a thirty second soccer game with some local Italian guys before moving toward a filling Italian dinner of wild boar sausage pasta with red wine and capped with strawberry liqueur. 

Jaime
Friday: Amalfi Coast
Friday we were pretty successful to get out of the house fairly early.  We all piled in the van, minus John the working man again, and drove to one of the naval bases to meet up with some good friends of our parents and Laurie and John from the Navy, Ben and Cheryl and their two kids Anna Claire and Andrew.  Then our two vans travelled together and drove to the Amalfi Coast!

Once we approached the coast line the road became very sinuous, constricted, and kept rising higher and higher above the water. It was a bit scary but Laurie conquered the roads despite the fact that she was driving a short bus.  She did fake everyone out once swerving into a wider part of the road which made my mom and Cheryl both nervous for a moment. The views were spectacular of the deep water that turned into turquoise and then rocky points and cliffs jutting into the sea. We could even see the Siren Islands which Homer referred to in the Odyssey!

Everyone started to get the grumble down in the stomach region so we stopped in the town of Positano for an excellent lunch.  We parked and then walked a little ways down closer to the water but we were still pretty high up and found a restaurant with a view of the water and we even got to sit outside to enjoy it.  We stayed there for a pretty long time and took in the sun and the wonderful food from Campania. Although we would've liked to have spent a couple days there and on the rest of the Amalfi coast, we did have to beat the rush hour traffic around Naples so we headed home on the long and windy road.

Brad
Saturday: Downtown Naples
Saturday held for us a busy day in bustling downtown Naples.  The streets were packed mostly with Italians our age wearing black fur lined jackets and large lens sunglasses.  Fresh fish, mussels, squid, and octopus were being sold on ice.  Crazy graffiti art was sprayed to alley walls. Tiny man doors were cut out of the enormous ancient double doors built for horse and chariot parking.  Stone skulls and bones decorated the Santa Maria Purgatorio Church that was a Catholic cult focused on death and the afterlife. 

Our party wandered the streets and entered an old chapel that served as the most underrated museum in Italy, Museo Cappella Sansevero.  Inside lay the most intricately carved marble statues that I would compare to the detailed work of Michaelangelo's Pieta in St. Peter's.  The nude woman of "Modesty" was covered with a thin layer of silk -- no easy feat on a sculpture. 

It was a delectable experience to eat pizza in the town where pizza margherita was invented.  I Decumani had a wide selection and we washed down our thin tomato topped flatbreads with a few bottles of Peroni beer.  An accordion player entered and played which prompted my life aspiration of paying an accordionist to follow me with personal theme music. 

Close to the pizza place was the Complesso Monumentale di San Lorenzo Maggiore -- an underground Roman market buried beneath a church buried beneath another church.  Neapolitans do not even bother with demolition, they seem to just bury and keep building on top of structures.  It was neat that, like the amphitheatre, we could walk into all the rooms that used to be ancient Roman shops.  Naples has a poor reputation, but it has become a favorite city of mine in Italy and the world. 

Jaime
Sunday: Back to Rome
After six wonderful days in Monte di Procida we decided to head back to Rome for one day before mom, dad, and Kevin were leaving to head to France for the week. Brad and I actually hadn't been to our apartment for 2 ½ weeks! So we got on a train at noon and arrived in Rome around 2:30 in the afternoon and then made the journey to the apartment.

The metro was of course crowded as ever when we had all our suitcases but we managed through the two stops and made it to the apartment just fine, hot, and sweaty.  Mom wasn't expecting our apartment to be so small, but it probably seemed that way because there were five of us in the small living room.  We then went on a family walk towards our school so they could see the building and the giant door from the outside. We continued on towards Piazza Republica where we made a stop for a light lunch.  Then we entered into the church Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, which is built into old Roman baths called the Baths of Diocletian.  It was one of my favorite churches that I have been in in Rome.  It was beautiful yet not overly decorated and gaudy as my mom put it.  It wasn't as overwhelming as many of the churches are. It was very big and open.  This was a very controversial church because it mixes Christianity and Science inside. 

One of the popes back in the day hired an astromoner, Francesco Bianchini, to construct the Meridian Line inside the church which is almost like a sundial, and at solar noon the sun will shine through this tiny hole on parts of the line showing what time of the year it is. It was very interesting to see and read about. 

At 6 o'clock mass started and we got to hear a man play the giant pipe organ inside for a while. It was an amazing sound to hear in church echoeing its notes around the area. We left the church and sat around the fountain for a few minutes in the piazza and then continued on towards our apartment but stopped and gazed at all the ancient ruins in our area (which are most of them) in the sunset. The lighting was magnificent and it was the perfect temperature out.  Brad and I took the family to the famous Il Boschetto restaraunt which we love so much.

We had an excellent dinner accompanied by the fabulous house wine.  Our usual waiter, Alessandro, loved the family and brought us limoncello on the house. Brad started the topic of our family history back in Germany which occupied our minds for quite sometime, however the family had to wake up early Monday morning so we ended the night around 11 pm and went back to the apartment. 

Once we all got in bed, Brad and Kevin decided to go out for the night and not sleep, but I was rudely awoken at 3:35 am to the loft, where our beds are, swaying and the metal stairs rattling. I was very confused and thought that maybe Brad and Kevin had come home and were swinging on the loft, but I decided that they had no reason to do it nor was it really possible.  I was very tired and dazed and couldn't figure out what it was, so after a few hours I finally fell back alseep once I convinced myself that someone had come in the house to shake the apartment.

When I woke up I thought it was all a dream until I talked to my dad about it and he had said that he noticed it as well.  Turns out, as many of you have seen and heard, that it was an earthquake that struck the next door region of Abruzzo.  The epicenter was about 60 miles from Rome so there doesn't seem to be any damage here but there was a lot in the small towns of Abruzzo.

It is so crazy to think that we are actually here, in this part of the world, during an international disaster. You usually see things that happen on TV in other countries, and  this time  we are here, and close, and experienced part of it. We are very fortunate to have been far enough away to be safe.  Luckily our family made it out of Rome safely with no problems as far as we know since they didn't show up at our door again after they left at 5:30 in themorning.

Well, it's time to get some Italian homework done and make some progress for the week. Until next time, arrivederci!

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Monday, March 30, 2009: Rome

Posted by Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jaime and Brad are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman Univer
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on Monday, 30 March 2009
in Spring 2009: Jaime & Brad Kuntz

Jaime: Midterms
Well, all five midterms went well for us! It took a lot of focus and self-teaching, but we both feel like we at least passed all of them (maybe even a couple A's?)! Unfortunately on St. Patrick's Day we had three midterms to study for that were all on the 18th. As many can probably imagine we took a break right before midnight and went down to 'The Surge' Irish Pub next door and had ourselves a study treat: one Guinness each, I promise, only one. The pub was decorated in many Guinness advertisements and the color green and it was packed with mostly Italian citizens, very excited to be there and celebrating the Irish holiday. 

We wish we could have stayed longer but we decided to be responsible young adults, despite the small percentage of Irish blood in our veins, and go back to the wee apartment to get a good night's rest before the day of insanity.  After taking those three midterms, it was hard to focus for the last one, especially when we both had packing left to do for spring break, but we managed, pulled through and even had spare time before going our separate ways on a beautiful, sunny Thursday afternoon.

Brad: Scotland

Scotland photos

Kick the can in Scotland
Brian and Jason climbing Arthur's Seat
Christie and Alli on top of Arthur's Seat
Brad and Brian on top of Arthur's Seat at sunset
Brad in the Elephant House
FREEDOM!
St. Gile's Cathedral
Meadows at sunset
The city of Edinburgh

London photos

Elyse at her underground stop in London
The Camden Market
Jaime in Hyde Park on a beautiful day
Jaime and Elyse in front of Buckingham Palace
Elyse with her fish 'n chips 'n peas 'n cider
Jaime in the red phone booth
View of Big Ben, Westminster Abby, River Thames, and the city from the London Eye
Elyse and Jaime in one of the 'eggs' at Sketch
Andy and Jaime at afternoon tea/lunch in Notting Hill

Berlin photos

Jaime and Brad in the TV tower
Brad in the Jewish Holocaust Memorial
Brad in front of some of the Berlin Wall still standing
Jaime caught in a blizzard!
The book burning memorial
Jaime and Brad in front of a Berlin cathedral
Brad with Ampelman
TV tower Panorama Bar at night
Jaime and Kelsey on top of the Reichstag
Jaime and Brad in front of a piece of the Berlin Wall
The church that was bombed
Brad with his large dinner

Monte di Procida photos

Brad and Jaime at the castle
Brad and Laurie with the castle in the background
Brad and Jaime with a new found sunken/headless friend
John and Laurie in front of the food table at the wine tasting party
Pasquale pouring some of his wine

A couple celebratory German beers after finals coupled with the hopes of an enjoyable Spring Break was enough to encourage me through the unavoidable packing process.  I felt pretty economical fitting everything into one backpack, but all I really needed were clothes, a passport, Jack Kerouac's On The Road, and an iPod.  I put on the grey plaid golfing hat that I bought from a street vendor in Trastevere and took a Terravision bus from Termini station to Rome's Ciampino airport and boarded a Ryan Air flight to Glasgow Prestwick International Airport. 

From there I cruised on a two-hour bus ride into Edinburgh to meet up with my good friend, former USC housemate, and previous Rome exploration accompanist: Brian Susman.  I landed on a lonely bridge in the middle of town at two in the morning. After scanning through all of the contacts in my cell phone I found that I did not have Brian's number.  But I used my noggin and found it in my received calls from the weekend that he visited me in Rome and had ecstatically called me after seeing the Coliseum for the first time.

He instructed me to meet him at the Starbucks on the Royal Mile -- a touristy street cutting through the center of town that connects the Edinburgh Castle with the Holyrood Palace.  I passed several Starbucks and trekked down the entire road before having to turn around and meet him back at the first Starbucks I passed.  It was great to see my bud again, and he brought with him a few of his red headed Scottish friends that also attend the University of Edinburgh--Kyle Worgan, a political science major and Alistair, a heavy metal rock musician.

The first thing that I noticed about the people of Scotland is that they are the kindest and most friendly people in the world, though this is undoubtedly facilitated by the breakdown of the language barrier. This was the first time I had been in an English speaking country for months.  The next thing I noticed was that Scots eat an excessive amount of fried food.  I was famished when we arrived at the apartment and Kyle was kind and friendly enough to put some diced potatoes and a chicken sandwich in his miniature deep fryer for me. With my colloquial California vegan diet this was more of an assassination attempt than a gesture of kindness, but when in Scotland...

Over twenty USC students are studying in Edinburgh this semester, and Brian lives with one, Jason Nord -- a soft spoken sociology major who plays the guitar and sleeps all day but quests all night.  Some of Brian's other Edinburgh friends started to show up from around town and before we knew it, we were cracking open beers and a bottle of wine and having a welcome party. A few of Brian's USC comrades were visiting from Los Angeles on their Spring Breaks including Ali Stillman, Brian's oldest friend from his native town of Calabasas, California who we awoke with our noisy party but was nevertheless a good sport and joined in the fun.  Two girls from Denmark had a flight home in a few hours and wanted a final hoorah.  We drifted outside and flung the Frisbee across the dark streets -- dodging the passing cars, and flirting with mischief. 

When the clock struck five in the morning, I made the executive decision that for anybody still awake there was no longer any sense in sleeping.  And if we were not going to sleep, then we were definitely watching the sunrise.  But a sunrise is always best when viewed from the top of a hill, so Brian, Kyle, Ali, Jason, Daniel, and I ventured through town to the city center and climbed Calton Hill.  At the pinnacle stands an incomplete Athenian acropolis of massive pillars that overlooks meadows of twisting trees and solitary monuments.

Our gang sat huddled at the citadel while we bopped a cappella jazz beats and gazed our tired eyes through the eerie mist awaiting the earth to rotate into view of our lovely star.  But instead of a sunrise, we sat through the morning fog until the world brightened like a dimmer switch in the sky -- my first view of Edinburgh in the light. 

We walked back towards the apartment at nine in the morning.   All around me were towering gothic steeples and cathedrals of gloomy, dark-grey, mossy, medieval stones.  We stumbled upon an empty metal soup can on the ground and kicked it among us as we walked.  I recalled my Grandpa telling me that he played kick the can when he was a kid, though this was our own modern variation of the game involving total teamwork instead of competition. 

Right then and there our only mission in life was to kick this clinging and clanging can, and after reaching the smooth flat ground in front of a government building we formed a loose circle and kicked the can in between us, gaining a few craning necks and collecting pondering eyes passing by.  The can landed straight up and down in front of me and I leaped in the air and my heel landed square on it, crushing it into a flat puck and terminating our game.  Brian dusted it off and placed it in his bag for a memory on the shelf. 

Ironically, I woke up only a few hours before sunset, so Brian, Jason, Ali, her roommate Christie and I rushed to Black Medicine Coffee Company downtown to meet up with another fellow USC Trojan, John Margetis.  John may be my new favorite person in the entire world.  He was born without both of his hands yet he has more ability, dexterity, and confidence than most people I know.  

We ordered cappuccinos and hiked to the top of Arthur's Seat -- the grassy butte on the edge of town that was as close to a mountain as we could get for a high angle panorama of Edinburgh, Scotland at sunset.  The gothic steeples below were silhouettes in the fiery horizon.  We walked down the other side of the hill and came across a field of green grass that bounced like memory foam beneath the feet so we rolled in it and lay on our backs to look at the fading blue sky. 

On the other side of Arthur's Seat stands the oldest pub in Scotland -- the 14th century Sheep Heid.  The walls are decked with deer mounts and artifacts in the incandescent yellow lamplight and we ordered Scotch whiskey at the bar.  John is in the whiskey society at University of Edinburgh, and was sure to impart some knowledge on my taste buds.  We drank a few local Edinburgh brews, had a couple thumb wars, and walked on to Central City Café to eat some deep fried pizza and fried haggis (a traditional Scottish dish consisting of basically everything in the sheep) which was surprisingly not as bad as one might think -- somewhere in between soft meatloaf and a hamburger patty.  At Brian's we tried to stay awake long enough to watch Full Metal Jacket, but failed miserably. 

Saturday morning, Brian and I walked downtown to The Elephant House café where J.K. Rowling created in writing the infamous Harry Potter.  Drawings and photographs of elephants are pinned all over the walls -- a most unlikely place for a wizarding world to be imagined.   I ordered my cappuccino, anticipated reading the final book in the series years after the rest of society had spoiled the magic, and we meandered out the door vocalizing our jazz tunes.  In Edinburgh, everybody walks everywhere, and wherever Brian and I were walking, we were usually singing a cappella jazz or beat-boxing the beat for one another. 

We walked down the Royal Mile into the Whiskey Experience, contemplated a tour, but decided to simply buy a bottle of Famous Grouse and check out the Edinburgh castle.  We contemplated a tour of the castle, but the queue was awfully long, so we just threw back some whiskey from the bottle and winged a personal tour of at the castle from the outside. 

Down the street was a man dressed in plaid rags and face painted blue like William Wallace from Braveheart. He was taking donations for Leukemia in exchange for a picture with him while sporting a falchion or broad-sword of your choice.  I drew a crowd after heaving my falchion in the air and bellowing out a loud 'FREEDOM!" 

We rambled down the Royal Mile past bagpipers piping and entered Saint Guiles Cathedral dated back to the 12th century.  It is regarded today as the mother church of Presbyterianism -- Jaime and I were raised Presbyterian.  Brian and I stepped lightly beneath the massive archways towards the melodic reverberating voice of an angel in white.  She sang a beautiful song that stopped my comrade and I dead in our tracks to listen until the end. 

In the late afternoon sunshine, we found ourselves in the meadows -- huge grassy fields where the University students hang out and eat or play.  We fixed some cost effective hobo sandwiches out of a loaf of bread, a bag of spinach, and some tomatoes and met some folks for a game of Frisbee.  I played until my fingers bled.  Two of my other former housemates and English majors from USC, AJ and Tommy, came down to the meadows to hang out. 

We talked about how amazing On the Road is and how much more amazing it is to read while on the road. We shared some scotch and Brian blew a saxophone in the grass.  He pushed me while I was sitting peacefully talking to some girls from Newcastle, England, so I chased the tough guy down, wrestled him to the ground, and threw him around in the grass in front of all his friends.  The sunset was beautiful.

Our gang prepared some homemade vegetable pizza for dinner while watching Dodgeball and then jazzed our way to the Bauhaus artsy hangout for a beer and staggered to a club to dance the night away.  Sadly, it was Ali and Christie's last night in Edinburgh before going back to LA, so I am glad we made the most of it.

Brian and I spent my last full day at the National Museum of Scotland, looking at art and artifacts and reading up on the history and evolution of the country I had just imprinted my soul upon.  We ordered one last cappuccino and cake then went out one last time with AJ and Tommy to get some Scotland famous Fish and Chips and pints at a pub in Newtown Edinburgh.  I did not sleep since I had to catch a 3:30 AM bus to Glasgow Prestwick Airport.  And just like that, I said goodbye to Brian and goodbye to Scotland with nothing more than good memories with great friends.   Brian promised me that he will give me a cost estimate on the cardinal and gold kilts for us to wear to the USC football games. 

Jaime: London
The beginning of my trip was rather stressful considering how prepared and relaxed I had felt before leaving to catch the Leonardo Express to the airport. The metro came a little bit later than it usually does, so I arrived at Termini station later than I expected, meaning I had to run to make it to my train.  I barely made it, and had to ride there amongst many other travelers all flushed and sweaty.

We arrived to the airport, and I got to the EasyJet check in right on time, however someone was holding the line up and I waited for over an hour to get checked in, leaving less than 30 minutes to go through security and get to my gate. Well then we boarded the plane half hour late, everyone rushed to their unassigned seats and we sat on the plane for about an hour and half because there were 140 people on the plane and only 139 had checked in. Turns out the check-in folks made a counting mistake and we finally were on our way.

In London I caught a train to an underground station downtown and my friends from Chapman, Elyse and Andy, were there to pick me up! London was a great city and it was so fun to spend time with Elyse, not only because she's my best friend but also because she knew some really great places to see.  We did go out to many top-notch clubs and lounges, we stayed out way too late every night having so much fun, however I have been paying for it with an unfriendly cold for the last seven days; but it was totally worth it.  Besides partying, we did a lot of really great things around the city.

One day we went to the Camden Market, which is a really artsy, funky neighborhood and market full of ethnic vendors that sold food, trinkets, clothing, shoes, art, jewelry, souvenirs, etc... We spent the entire day on Friday there. Saturday, we took a walk through Hyde Park. It was a gorgeous day, all the flowers and trees were blooming and many people were all around the park running, biking, playing soccer, playing tag, rowing in the lake and just walking around like Elyse and me. 

We continued on to see the outside of Buckingham Palace. It was very large and regal, but the guards wearing red with the tall black hats weren't out, so that was a little disappointing. After that we went on a mission for the best fish 'n chips; after many options we found them! Sorry, can't tell though, it's our secret! We enjoyed our fish n' chips n' vinegar, added a little salt of course, our peas and our cider very much. It was one of the highlights of my London trip. 

After lunch we walked to the London Eye. On the way, we saw Westminster Abby and Big Ben! It was so crazy seeing these sites that I've heard about my whole life and seen in movies. I suppose it is that way though every time I go to a new city though. It was quite a wait to finally board one of the biggest Ferris wheels in the world, but the view when we finally got in was incredible. It was such a clear day and it seemed like one could see all of London and everything that we had passed that day, not to mention being right over the River Thames.  It was a little scary being up so high but it was great. 

After the big 'flight' Elyse and I were exhausted and caught a double-decker red bus back to her neighborhood for a nap! We met up later with Elyse's friends for dinner then Elyse and I stumbled upon some people going to somewhere called 'Sketch.' We decided it'd only be best if we tagged along. It turned out to be a members-only club/restaurant/bar, but we got lucky and they let us in anyways.  The ambiance and décor around the venue had great vibes.

In the restaurant there were projections of the city all around the walls, in other rooms the light fixtures were really cool, there were old vintage chairs everywhere, one of the bars was inside a dome and the bar and bartenders were down about four feet lower from where we were standing, and then the highlight of sketch was the bathroom.  There are two sets of stairs: one for boys and one for girls. Obviously we went up the girl's side, but you can see both sides from anywhere. At the top of the stairs the lighting is pretty dark and purple and there are about 40 total white, egg shaped pods in which each contain a toilet!

When you close the door a voice comes on as if you are inside a space shuttle about to land. It was wild and we made many trips up there. Sunday Elyse and I seemed dead, but we still got up and went to a place called Covent Garden.  It was a market with some vendors, pubs, restaurants, and live performances. Elyse and I strolled around and had a glass of wine where a couple of people were playing the violin, cello and flute while doing the 'jig.' It was very entertaining and fun to watch. We then ventured on and went to Punch and Judy's two- story pub, drank a cider on the balcony, and watched the sun set as a not-so-funny comedian performed down below.  That night we ate excellent Thai food with Elyse's friends and got so full that we could have fallen asleep right there at the table. 

My last day in London I packed up my things early and then Elyse and I met up with Andy and walked to Notting Hill and had tea and lunch at an upstairs garden café overlooking the Portobello Market. It was a perfect way to end my time in London.  I wish I could've stayed longer, but it was time to catch my flight to Berlin, which fortunately was a lot less painful than the flight to London.

Brad: Germany
Check in to St. Christopher's Hostel & amenities, naptime, Jaime called, tour the next day in blizzard barely getting breakfast, history, almost peeing my pants, jaime's still sick from London, meeting Colin and Cammie on tour, ampelman, eating braut and beer, meeting up for tv tower at 3434532 meters, drinkin beers at sunset, going to hostel for more beer then to the courage for more beer -- no hostel hopping, next day breakfast and meeting up, going to Reichstag met up with hometown girls Kelsey and kate & friend, goodbye to colins, go to west berlin sony center for Italian food...out to dinner at the potatoe house -- reisling, pork, potatoes, ampfel, etc, looking for a party unsuccessfully, and to Napoli.

A wise high school Modern American Literature teacher, Mr. Duff, taught me a line from the renowned Scottish poet Robert Burns' ode To A Mouse: "The best laid schemes o' mice and men gang aft aglee."  Which can be understood as: "the best laid schemes of mice and men often go awry."

My 3:30AM bus arrived at Glasgow Prestwick at 5:30AM.  I was exhausted and consequently slept on a bench at a restaurant in the airport until check in time opened at 10:45AM.  I approached the Ryan Air counter and asked where all the Easy Jet counters were.  The kind young lady informed me that Easy Jet only flies out of Glasgow Airport, not Glasgow Prestwick International Airport.  Great.  I have an hour until my flight leaves for Berlin and I am in the wrong airport.  Not only this, but she told me the correct airport was an hour away and I would never make it, but nevertheless gave me public transportation directions so I would not have to hail an expensive cab.

I decided to make a go for it.  Flight check in closed at noon, and I knew where I had to go, so I just relaxed and tried to read some of my book for the hour it took to travel there.  I boarded a train that bulleted through the beautiful farming countryside, with rolling green hills and goats grazing everywhere.  I caught a bus from the train station to the airport as the clock rolled over to noon.  I stopped reading my book and started planning ways to talk my way out of this messy situation. 

I ran to the counter and a customer was taking forever with something that seemed rather insignificant and obvious to me.  He moseyed away and I rushed forward and slammed my passport and confirmation number on the counter and asked if I could still get on the plane to Berlin.  She looked at the clock and informed me that check in was closed and I would have to reschedule my flight.  I asked if I could sprint to the plane since I had experience in this department.  Noting that I only had a backpack, she printed me a boarding pass and gave me the go-ahead.  "Sprint like you've never sprinted before," she called after me as I darted away.  I had to wait in line for ten minutes before boarding my flight to Berlin.

I landed in Germany, where my father's ancestors had left for Ellis Island and the American dream the century before.  I took a train into the city and walked around aimlessly looking for my Hostel.  Jaime was not going to arrive for a few more hours anyway, so I savored my masculine pride and avoided asking directions.  Instead I just looked at maps on the street.  I ate some Asian food at the station next to a gang of old German folks drinking beer and laughing hysterically at the comedic door that kept blowing open in the wind after closing it each time.

I reached Saint Christopher's Hostel, paid up, and grabbed the key for the room that Jaime had reserved.    The Hostel hosted a cheap decent bar downstairs, a food menu, free breakfast, cheap internet, clean rooms, and helpful customer service.  They have locations all over Europe, and I would probably look them up again without question.  Jaime and I got a private room so we would not have to worry about smelly boys or having our things looted.  I set my luggage down, plugged in my dying phone, kicked off my shoes and passed out on the bed. 

I awoke to Jaime's phone call asking me to meet her at the station.  I walked that way with my iPod and, while I stood in the station, three drunk German college girls on their way to a club bombarded me with questions about my music, who I was, and why I was waiting for my sister.  They begged me to come with them to their club, but I was a loyal bro and resisted the temptation. 

Jaime and I were pretty beat from the United Kingdom, so we just went to sleep when she arrived.   And our scheme to wake up at nine for the 8-10 AM breakfast went awry when we forgot to reset our clocks.  I bolted downstairs and grabbed a piece of bread and a bowl of fruit cocktail just as they were putting things away, but Jaime did not even bother trying.  We put on our jackets and convened in the lobby to depart for the site of the daily free tour of Berlin. 

And another scheme awry, the moment that our tour began, the sky started throwing hail and storming rain and snow upon our heads.  We ran for the Brandenburg gate and were given temporary shelter from the storm as we passed through the center -- historically reserved for royalty such as ourselves. 

Behind us was the hotel where Michael Jackson held his child out over the balcony like it was pride rock. We peered down the street at the Reichstag parliament building, and learned that a drunk communist citizen had set it on fire in the middle of the night, and the democratically elected chancellor Adolf Hitler used this as leverage to legally change the constitution to give him wartime power and dictatorship authority.

We walked next though the Holocaust Memorial, a park sized grid of upright massive concrete rectangular prisms inspired by a cemetery in Prague, but open to artistic interpretation according to the architect.  As I walked through the maze, the ground sloped downwards and the concrete slabs towered taller and taller over my head until I had a powerless oppressed feeling of being buried alive.  Things began to look the same in every direction, like there was no way out and claustrophobia settled in.  But we knew what was on the other side, and we walked through assertively putting the past behind us and leaving concrete slabs of memory and condolence in our wake.

Our guide, Lewis, led us to Humboldt University, where Albert Einstein taught theoretical physics for years before fleeing to the United States during the war.  We also looked across the street from the school at the plaza where mountains of "Non-German" books were burned under the organization of Humboldt students and professors themselves.  Below the plaza is a monument that represents an empty bookshelf and books are now sold on the sidewalk for a discounted price. 

We saw what remained of the fenced off graffitied Berlin wall that separated communist East Berlin and republic West Berlin after the war.  Apparently to calm protestors an agreement had been made that people would be conditionally let through from East Berlin into the West with a series of fine print.  But Gunter Schabowski, an East German minister of propaganda, who was to announce this agreement, was on vacation and did not know the fine print and simply said on national television that anybody could get through.   When Tom Brokaw asked, "when?", he responded "right away."  And the wall came down.  Supposedly David Hasseloff is also claiming credit for the tearing down of the wall -- they love him in Germany, though Jaime and I were disappointed to not see any Dave posters on the streets.

The site of Hitler's bunker in which he committed suicide is nothing more than a parking lot now -- no relic, monument, or anything commemorating him stands within the city.  Enough monuments and bad memories stand as a result of his evil.

We explored much of central Berlin and our tour concluded on the steps of a century old cathedral that had to have its central dome rebuilt after the war and artificially aged to match the rest of the church.  We gave our free tour guide a tip because he was very thorough and survives on tips.

The excited green traffic man complete with a top hat, named Ampelman, indicates that pedestrians can cross the street and is unique to Berlin.  Ampelman was the creation of an engineering psychology experiment to see if people would pay more attention to when they could cross the street if the symbol was an exaggerated German character instead of a boring universal stick figure.  It worked, and now Ampelman is famous.  Jaime and I were taking a picture in front of the Ampelman store when Cami and Collin, a brother sister traveling duo from Colorado, approached us and started chatting.  We all started walking and agreed to eat lunch.

We encountered a small place close by and had beers and brauts.  Jaime asked for saurkraut with her baked potato and got a suspicious look from the server, but it was tasty all the same.  Cami had been volunteering in an orphanage in India for the past year after graduating college and her brother Collin took a few months off to visit her and help out.  They were on their way back to the states and decided to explore Europe together on the way.  It was nice to meet people around the same age in a similar situation.

We met at the top of the Fernsehturm TV tower at Alexanderplatz for sunset.  There is a bar in the 365 meter tower with a panoramic view of the entire city where we sipped German beers and exchanged traveling stories as the sunset illuminated steeple, domed, and modern Berlin transformed into a twinkling lamplight city night scene.   We bought some pretzels and walked to our hostel for cheaper beers though decided against going to their hostel to avoid hostel hopping in a city where there's a greater variety of authentic things to do.  We found a place called Courage, with candlelight and Jack Johnson playing that nearly lulled us to sleep, so we called it a night soon thereafter.

The next morning we woke up for breakfast on time and Colin and Camie met up with us for a trip to the Reichstag.  We walked in beautiful sunshine and half wished we had opted for a tour this day, but no regrets.  Above parliament is a clear dome that people can look down, but more importantly that the lawmakers can look up when doing their jobs and remember who it is that they are working for -- the people.  We waited in line for an hour or so and met our friends from high school, Kelsey and Kate, who were studying abroad in Berlin for the semester.  We spiraled to the peak for another breathtaking view of the city.  I fantasized long boarding down the ramp.  We descended and had to sadly say goodbye to our sibling counterparts.

Our hometown Whitefish posse journeyed into modernized West Berlin to the Sony Center area for some Italian food and beer, then moseyed over to the "Broken Church" that was never repaired after bomb damage during the war.  The old mosaics inside were still golden, shimmering, and magnificent despite the void.  Modern addendums had been made to the sides of the church with bright blue stained glass splattered with other colors of the spectrum behind a grid of concrete that from the inside gave a look of a magnified fishing net underwater. 

Jaime and I walked around the shops and vendors in Alexanderplatz and found antique beer steins with pewter lids and images sculpted in the outside.  Jaime's depicts a dragon slaying scene and has a deep amber glaze, whereas mine illustrates a German family outside with their dog among the wildflowers glazed dark blue.  My lid is domed with a point and engraved with designs, which was the real selling point for my souvenir. 

For dinner, Jaime and I wanted a real authentic German meal, so we walked along the river front, around a two-steepled church and came across an adorable restaurant where we played cards and drank German Riesling and attempted to order in German from our jovial blonde haired sweetheart waitress.  Jaime ordered potatoes Au Gratin with Broccoli, and I ordered what my Dad used to make all the time at home: pork chops, saurkraut and potatoes.  She brought out an entire pig hock on a plate -- hairy skin, bones, and everything. No doubt it was authentic -- and it was very tasty too.  We ordered apple strudel with ice cream and walked home.

Jaime was feeling sick and tired, but I wanted something more, so I put my jacket back on and set to the streets in search of a party.  The streets were pretty empty, and my first destination proved to be no more than a building decorated with a For Sale sign.  But I pressed on, and passed a hip jazz restaurant that I probably should have stayed at in retrospect, but it was not my vibe at the time, so I walked to central Berlin and walked into a bar with a tent lounge annex.  I ordered a pint and walked into the tent to catch the DJ's Bob Marley tunes while the crowd faded.  So Berlin nightlife is dead on Wednesdays, but no doubt the Kuntz family will return to Germany in the near future. 

Jaime: Monte di Procida
Brad and I got to the Berlin airport on time and there weren't any lines during the whole process so we ended up waiting in the airport café drinking cappuccinos, getting excited to dive back into Italian culture.  The flight was pretty short for us since we spent most of it with our eyes shut and then successfully landed in Napoli where Laurie was there to pick us up right when we collected our baggage.

It was nice to be back in some sunshine and see some familiar sights. Before getting home we stopped at Castello di Baia, an old castle and fortress, originally Aragonese, which is now also the home of an archeological museum. It also served as an orphanage for a few years after World War I. We originally stopped there so that Laurie could drop off some dog food and treats for the castle dogs, Max and another little one that doesn't have a name yet. 

We then decided to walk around a little bit. It is right on a cliff above the sea so there were gorgeous views from one of the upper levels we got to go out on in the castle.  Inside we saw some old statues, structures and even a temple that had sunk down after an earthquake that caused a landslide into the Mediterranean Sea in about the second century A.D. We got to walk through some of the echoing barren hallways and see some rooms, but most of the castle is not open for viewing yet. It was supposed to be finished a while ago, so there's no telling when one will be able to walk across the mote into other areas of the fortress. 

We then went home and Brad and I immediately did our laundry because we had absolutely no clean clothes left. We then spent the day relaxing and reading, then Laurie took us on a walk through the town and we stopped at the bread shop, the meat shop and a fruit and vegetable stand to pick up some items that we would need for the wine tasting party that we had here at Villa Rossi on Saturday evening.  

John got home from work and then we had cocktail hour, ate some dinner and watched an old 80's movie, 'The Real Genius.'  Friday Brad continued to read while Laurie and I worked in the kitchen preparing appetizers for the wine tasting party.  When John got home we all had trouble making decisions about what to eat and finally we decided to go eat dinner at the famous Taverna dei Sapori owned by Mariella and Peppe that we ate at the time before.  We loved every moment of it again and we ate way too much delicious food.  We ordered many appetizers as well as the eggplant and smoked mozzarella pasta dish again and then tried a new one with rigatoni, shrimp and mushrooms. They never fail to impress us.   Luckily we walked up-hill to get back home so we could help the digestion process a little bit. 

Saturday was another day full of Laurie and I preparing in the kitchen, we made some mini quiches, peanut sauce for chicken satay, a salmon spread, black bean salsa, prosciutto wrapped shrimp, a curry dip for sliced vegetables, cookies, a cheese plate, etc... Mariella also made some fantastic dishes for the party: spaghetti pie, pizza, eggplant parmesan, and a caprese cake to name a few.  John did a lot of work outside and moving things around, sometimes convincing Brad to put down his book to help.

We took a break mid-day for a light lunch in the sun and then went back to work. Then Pasquale came over, the owner of the local winery, Cantine del Mare.  He brought over the wine that we were going to taste and some extra to sell in case anyone wanted to buy some, in which many did. He was very knowledgeable about his business and is more of a quality producer rather than quantity.  We ended up frantically finishing the rest of the cooking, Brad had to be recruited to cooking the chicken and shrimp, and we all pitched in setting up, barely squeezing a shower in. 

Luckily the 37 guests showed up a little bit late and sporadically so everything seemed perfect once everyone arrived. Of course the wind started to pick up pretty heavy at the start of the party, but it didn't stop the pouring of the wine on the patio. We tried 8 of the 9 different wines from Cantine del Mare, and all were impressively delicious and it was tempting to go for a second round.  Our favorite white was the Falanghina and our favorite red was the Novello. Of course his Brezza Flegrea spumante was absolutely bubbly and delicious as well.  I strongly recommend all of his wines if you ever see any of them.  It's interesting because all of his wine is made from either the falanghina or piedrosso grape, but they all have very distinct qualities and flavors.

Between the wine, the food and meeting many interesting people it was a very successful evening that couldn't have happened without John and Laurie. Somehow we all had energy at the end to put all the food away and wash the dishes! It wasn't easy waking up this morning, especially because of setting the clocks an hour ahead last night (this happens at a different time in Italy), however we had a lazy day that wasn't so lazy playing Wii Fit. Laurie got us hooked. A few that we did were ski jumping, slalom skiing, hula hooping, and tightrope walking. It was a blast and was actually a great work out. We're hoping to convince mom and dad to invest. 

Now we are getting ready for some leftover food from the party and preparing for our mom, dad, and younger brother Kevin to arrive tomorrow. We are so excited to see them and spend some time doing fun things around this area and in Rome.  We've been to Italy together as a family before, so at least all the major touristy things are out of the way.  Until next time, arrivederci from Jaime and Brad.

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Monday, March 16, 2009: Rome

Posted by Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jaime and Brad are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman Univer
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on Monday, 16 March 2009
in Spring 2009: Jaime & Brad Kuntz

Brad -- Gomorrah
Jaime's best friend from Chapman, Elyse, arrived on Tuesday just in time to join us for a screening of Gomorrah at Lorenzo de' Medici.  The film is based on a novel written by Roberto Saviano, who was an Italian journalist that infiltrated the Naples mafia and published a novel revealing the evil inner workings of one of Italy's most powerful, secret organizations -- The Camorra.

The book was a direct accusation of specific members of the Camorra, so the U.S. government is keeping him safe and hidden under a witness protection program.  The film was shot with a gritty realism that emphasized the veracity of his findings.  The movie was amazing, but as things usually go, Jaime has informed me that the book is still better. 

Jaime -- Showing Elyse Around, Villa Borghese, Trastevere

Elyse securing another trip to Rome at the Trevi Fountain
Villa Borghese
Elyse Relaxing
Brad Reading
Elyse and Jaime at Il Boschetto
Elyse and Jaime sitting on the Spanish steps

After three months of separation my heart beat with excitement as I waited for my best friend, Elyse, at the train station. Elyse is studying in London this semester and was on her spring break with four other girls from her school.  It was a very exciting reunion and it had seemed like way too long for us to be apart.  We pointed her friends in the right direction of a cab to take to their hotel and Elyse and I took the overly-crowded metro back to my apartment only to get up 15 minutes later to see the movie that Brad already mentioned.

Afterwards we made a nice dinner of gnocchi, a bottle of Brunello and got to catch up.  Elyse toured around with her friends the next day and got to go to the Vatican while I was in class all day, but after we met up and got dinner at Il Boschetto, (the restaurant we like a lot near our apartment). 

Thursday I took Elyse to the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, the Coliseum, and the Roman Forum.  It was a busy day of walking, but the weather was nice and it was fun showing her around the city that I'm living in.  Friday Brad, Elyse and I slept in a little bit then made some sandwiches (with pesto, peperencino paste, provolone cheese and tomatoes) and packed a picnic!

We ventured toward the Spanish steps and then went on to Villa Borghese.  The cherry blossom trees were gorgeous, so we set up our blanket in between a few trees and enjoyed our lunch while watching a group of mothers and their children play tag and with balloons all afternoon. Brad read a book while Elyse and I made some hemp bracelets, took pictures, and relaxed.  It was a very pleasant afternoon listening to all the laughing, playful children and a saxophone player in the distance. 

The sunshine was nice while it lasted but then the clouds rolled in and it got a little bit chilly so we decided to pack up and go back home.  That evening Brad, Elyse and I walked to Trastevere to an aperitif/wine bar right near the river called Freni e Frizione, which Brad and I had been to earlier in the semester on a school field trip. 

It was very crowded since it was a Friday night, but the food, drinks and music were still fantastic. We learned that Freni e Frizione translates to ‘brakes and friction' and is named that because the bar used to be an old mechanic garage. After a drink there we walked through the old streets of Trastevere and found a restaurant called Otello. It was big and crowded so we thought it was a good choice, and we were right!

We were sat at a table one inch away from a table of two French women. We felt like we were sitting at the same table so we spoke in pig Latin when we didn't want them to understand us.  The waiters all wore a typical black and white uniform with little black bow ties, scurrying around the whole night.  A man was cooking over hot coals in a brick oven and there were very random decorations on all the walls. 

Brad ordered a typical dish of Rome, the Carbonara, which consists of red sauce, ham and scrambled eggs over pasta.  We were all very pleased with our meals but pretty exhausted from all the walking around in the last few days.  Elyse and I retired to the apartment since she had an early flight to catch and Brad went to meet up with his friend.

Brad -- Ciao!
I recently found out that another one of my friends and fellow USC Trojan, Andrew, is living in Rome and attending John Cabot University -- although we have been accused of not being very good friends because we have both lived here for a month and a half without having a clue that one another was here.  In any case, we finally met up this weekend for some drinks at a bar in Piazza Navona where I was able to meet all of his friends and visiting family, and then partied late into the night in the club area of Rome, Testaccio. 

This coming week we have been blessed with midterms, including on Saint Patrick's Day.  So instead of blowing a large chunk of change in Dublin, Ireland, we will be studying all day with a potential Surge Irish Pub Guinness break if we are productive enough.  But the good news is that after midterm madness ends on Thursday, our Spring break begins!  Jaime will be visiting Elyse in London, England while I am visiting my friend Bryan Susman in Edinburgh, Scotland.  We will rendezvous in Berlin to get in touch with our roots, and at the same time meet up with my USC friend Andrew who will also be in Berlin. 

Then for the weekend we will be revisiting John and Laurie in Naples and joined by our family where we will all remain for a few more days. But I sign off now with a heavy heart, that we will not have the resources, time, or clear-mindedness to blog next week while we are travelling -- but what would we write about anyways, studying and midterms? Until March 30th, a presto!


Brad and Jaime in Roaming in Trastevere

Dinner with our French friends

Brad and Elyse 'picnicing' in Villa Borgese

Brad dancing
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Monday, March 9, 2009: Rome

Posted by Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jaime and Brad are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman Univer
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on Monday, 09 March 2009
in Spring 2009: Jaime & Brad Kuntz

Brad -- Life is Good
I must say, it's getting better all the time in Rome! Our classes are very enjoyable -- particularly, in Film and Mafia we have been watching such classic gangster films as the original Scarface, The Godfather, and Lucky Luciano. We are beginning to pick up Italian quite well and can formulate some sentences and at the very least, get our point across to people in order to communicate.

We also started doing daily "Gladiator Workouts" -- which in reality means that we are too financially challenged to join a gym, so instead I put on my iPod and take laps around the Coliseum, run to places all over Rome, and in our apartment do abdominal workouts, pushups on the stairs while Jaime pretend-jump-ropes and does pushups (and not girl pushups I might add) and various aerobic exercises. I felt absurd complaining about my gladiator workout hurting my wine-weakened liver while running around the colossal structure where real gladiators had their livers stabbed until they died, though I suppose it made me feel a little better in comparison.

The album cover for Jaime, Brad, and Andy's music videos
A fountain in modern day Pompeii
Dome in the church in Pompeii
The ruins
Jaime chilling in Pompeii
Light shining on a fresco in a house
Daisy, Ashley, and Luisa on the ancient crosswalk
Jaime and Cassie in Pompeii
Jaime and Brad in front of Mt. Vesuvius in Pompeii
The mold of the last seconds in a Roman's life amidst pottery
Daisy so excited for sweets, cake, and pie for breakfast!
The "face" lying face up in the mountains
Jaime climbing Vesuvius with her walking stick
Jaime frightened of the crater erupting lava
Jaime and Brad in front of the Bay of Naples on Vesuvius
Luisa, Daisy, and Brad in front of Bay of naples with Vesuvius behind

The sun is beginning to shine in the city, and today I ran to Villa Borghese, a gigantic park north of the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo. It was beautiful with green, grassy fields dotted with small daisies covered in the shade of pink cherry blossom trees. There were fountains, arches, busts, dirt trails to run on, people picnicking and couples spending some romantic time together. While running I decided that we are going there with some food, wine, and a blanket for our own picnic.

Jaime -- Oil Tasting
On Thursday afternoon our school arranged an olive oil tasting with a company that tastes olive oil for a living. These expert oil tasters taste more than 1000 different kinds of olive oil every year from all over the world. Italy is a big producer of olive oil, and most of it comes from here.

We each got to taste three different olive oils. Two were high quality and the other was an industrial generic one. It was incredible to be able to taste how different they are, especially between high and low quality.

We learned how to taste the oil professionally, it was a bit difficult, but you basically put a little in your mouth then smack your lips together a few times and swallow. The expert said if you don't feel a bit of spiciness or bitterness in your mouth or throat, then it probably is not high quality. I am not sure that any of us were really that good at tasting, but it was really cool to learn about, and we got a free can of high quality extra virgin olive oil! I think I like wine tasting better though ;).

Brad -- Wine Club
Our Wine and Culture professor, Heather Hanson, holds a wine club every Thursday night. So in order to practice our vino tasting skills (and taste great wine without having to take notes for an hour beforehand), Jaime and I ventured to Campo di Fiori to her apartment for wine club. She lives in a beautifully refurbished ground level garage of the upstairs owners. Everybody that had signed up this week cancelled, so it was just us three -- which was fine, more wine for us.

We tasted three different bottles of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Abruzzo is a region east of Rome that has a national park within. They were delicious, and after we tried all of them and wrote descriptions of their visual appearance, aromas, and tastes, we each did a blind tasting, where all the wines were shuffled around while the taster was not looking and then were identified by their previously defined characteristics.

This is not an easy task, but after the second blind taste, each of us identified all of the wines correctly! I thought my deviated septum from an old broken nose had diminished my sense of smell, but apparently that is all in my head.

Our professor, Heather, is really nice and chill and from California, so we had a lovely evening listening to music and conversing and tasting wine. She also adopted two cats from the cat sanctuary in the Argentina Ruins in the middle of Rome, and they were just as entertaining as they ate catnip and played with wine corks. This week for wine club, we are going out to a wine bar to do a tasting, so we are very excited to put our new skills to use in style!

Brad -- Pompeii
Friday night, Jaime's friend from Chapman University, Andy, came to Rome from London for the first few days of his spring break. He could not get over how amazing Rome is and said it was one of his favorite cities in Europe. We hung out at our apartment and Jaime cooked gnocchi as we all drank a few bottles of wine (of which we learned about in our wine class) and some limoncello before heading to The Surge-Irish Pub across the street for a Guinness. We were up until the wee hours of the morning posting ridiculous webcam music videos of ourselves on Facebook and taking pictures of each other jumping off of various things.

Needless to say, it was not that fun waking up early the next morning to catch the train to Naples. I slept the whole way there. From Naples we got on a bus that took us to Pompeii. I slept the whole way there too. And when we arrived we had a few hours to kill, so the eleven of us from Lorenzo de' Medici took a stroll around the contemporary city of Pompeii, went inside yet another beautiful church, and then ate at a pizza restaurant.

I had La Pizza Frutte di Mare -- which in Italian translates to something like "the pizza with yields of the sea", but really meant that the entire beach was on my pizza and I spent more time shelling than eating, but it was delectable and definitely worth the wait.

In the middle of the city was the site of the original ancient ruins of Pompeii. It was established around 600 B.C. by the Osci, a people of central Italy, later taken over by the Etruscans, and then conquered and taken over by the Romans. In 72 A.D. the great Mount Vesuvius exploded in a violent eruption that buried Pompeii and other surrounding towns in 23 feet of scorching hot ash, killing all its inhabitants.

Pompeii was not discovered until nearly 1600 years later when builders were excavating the site, and was not seriously uncovered for another 150 years by archaeologists. There is still 2/3 more of the town to be uncovered -- though excavation has been halted because of concerns over the graffiti and erosion that is destroying the uncovered parts of Pompeii.

Our tour guide was a very knowledgeable Italian man who walked us through the ash preserved ruins. Because they were covered by ash for so long, no moisture, air, weather, erosion, or people were able to deteriorate them. The lack of sunlight preserved the fresco art as well; therefore the site is a remarkably accurate glimpse into the lives of 1st century Romans.

And they were remarkably promiscuous. 25 brothels are scattered across town with large erections carved into the road to point the direction. The olive oil lamps that lit the door to the brothels emitted a red light that dubbed the areas "red light districts." Each room in the brothel had a fresco above the door displaying the working girl's specialty.

Apparently, the male reproductive organ also symbolizes good luck, because the phallic symbol was sculpted all over town. The "horn of plenty" has since evolved into a sign of good luck and our guide carried around a small gold one in his pocket just for this purpose.

We went inside a washroom that had a basin below an open ceiling to let rain water in. Apparently they mixed in ammonia-containing urine with the water in order to whiten their togas. On the inside of a house we were also able to see beautiful frescoes painted with a red pigment from a hematite compound from the nearby volcano and blue hues exported from ancient Egypt. There were mosaic marble tiles pieced together on the floor and a square opening in the ceiling that let light in and drained rain water into a square depression on the floor and flowed under the ground into the street.

The streets were their sewage drainages, so it was a good thing Pompeii was situated on a hill. The ancient crosswalks to avoid trekking through the excrement consisted of huge flat stones that were situated exactly one meter apart to let carriages cross over them -- the traffic indentations from heavy wheel traffic remain in the street to this day.

The stones on the side of the street also had loops carved out of them for people to tie up their animals when they went inside shops. They also had fresh running water at various points through the city -- Jaime even filled her water bottle up in one. Needless to say, the Romans were brilliant engineers.

Political slogans were preserved on the walls, and numerous brick oven pizza bakeries were discovered. An amphitheatre with perfect central resonance was situated on the edge of town for political assemblies and plays. To be honest, it sounds like it was a fabulous place to live for the most part.

Among an abundance of clay pots and jugs were the molds of several bodies from when Vesuvius erupted. The bodies disintegrated immediately, but the ash around them remained intact, so archaeologists injected plaster into the cavity to obtain a mold of the people. It was rather eerie to see what these people looked like in their last moments.

After our amazing tour, we went to a local limoncello shop and had free samples. Limoncello is best in Southern Italy. Limoncello liqueur is made from the skin of the peels of lemons being soaked in alcohol for eight days and then mixed with sugar-water simple syrup and put into the freezer for a few months. It is delicious. Southern Italy is also filled with stray dogs, and I played with four local canines that were just chilling in the street. They followed me most of the way to the hotel, and I wished I could have taken them home.

We were all exhausted but had a lovely meal at our hotel of pasta, swordfish, baba (a pastry soaked in Rum) and some wine. I retired to our room to watch CNN global news -- apparently European channels focus more on the world news whereas many American news stations are focused on America. And if you want an update, it seems as though our world is still as chaotic as ever, but at least we had such a great time in Pompeii!

Jaime -- Mt. Vesuvius
We woke up after I had about 11 hours of much needed sleep on Sunday morning. Brad and I both showered and were down in the hotel corridor for breakfast by 8:30. The breakfast was quite a pleasant surprise of a table full of an array of different pastries including nutella stuffed croissants, a nutty chocolate cake, and a typical pastry from Naples, sfogliatelle. It is a layered pastry with flavored ricotta inside and looks something like a ridged seashell.

It was very delicious, and the mother of our student advisor, Barbara, requested that she bring home a dozen of them after the trip! We also had delicious cappuccinos and fresh squeezed blood orange juice. However, it was a very sugary and not a very healthy meal so we were lucky that the bus arrived 30 minutes later to drive us to Mt. Vesuvius for a hike.

It took about 30 minutes to get to the visitor center on the volcano; most of the drive was on bumpy and winding roads. The hair pin turns that led us up the volcano seemed very desolate and lifeless. It was a beautiful drive getting glimpses of the mountains surrounding us as well as of the Mediterranean Sea.

At one point there was part of the mountain that looked like a face lying down with the nose up. The bus driver said it had something to do with a legend, but he didn't really tell us what the legend was. When we arrived to the visitor center we started the hike immediately, being sure not to forget our hiking sticks that an old Italian man was handing out to us.

The hike was not easy, but it was not tedious either, especially because there was a trail. It was a clear and sunny day, so it was very pleasant. There were views of Naples, the Mediterranean Sea, snow covered mountains, the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida, and many little towns below, including Pompeii and Herculaneum, (the towns destroyed from the 79 AD eruption).

Part of the trail had snow on it, but is very rare to see Mt. Vesuvius with snow on it at all. Once we finally made it to the top of this 4,203 foot stratovolcano, I began to feel a little terrified, mostly because I realized I was standing around a crater of an active volcano which usually erupts every fifty years and last erupted in 1944 and could potentially erupt again at any moment. It was amazing being able to look down inside the crater and see the view of everything from the top.

We spent quite a bit of time on the top taking pictures and relaxing. Then we hiked down, met the bus driver and he drove us into Napoli for the afternoon. It was such a gorgeous warm day so many people were out and about. It was also "Women's Day," so all of us girls got Mimosa flowers at lunch for being women!

We walked through a major piazza and then down to the water which was filled with sailboats. We then went and got some lunch near the water. It was delicious. Then we met the bus driver again so that he could drive us around Naples a bit and show us some nice views of the bay of Naples. However, there was quite a bit of traffic and if our train had not been delayed five minutes or if we had not sprinted through the station, we would have missed it.

It was definitely stressful, but we made it to Rome on time and did not get blown off the side of Mt. Vesuvius!

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Monday, March 2, 2009: Rome

Posted by Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jamie and Brad Kuntz
Jaime and Brad are Athena's first sibling bloggers! Jaime attends Chapman Univer
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on Monday, 02 March 2009
in Spring 2009: Jaime & Brad Kuntz

Brad
Last Monday, Lorenzo de Medici sponsored a "Slow Down Day," in which the computers were turned off to Facebook, email, and the world wide web, and our minds were turned on to conservation, relaxation, and Italian culture.  We were treated to an authentic Roman meal of lasagna and gnocchi followed by a glass of wine and I enjoyed a few relaxing silent hours of reading Harry Potter. 

We then had the option of attending a micro-ecology lecture explaining ways in which the individual citizens of this planet can all do their part in saving natural ecosystems, planet earth, and the human race. When individuals reduce energy, oil, and oil byproduct (plastic) consumption and use alternative energy sources, the demand for oil is consequently reduced and the war over natural resources can be eliminated.  In this way, one can do their part to promote world peace. 

It's easy - Reduce, Reuse, Recycle - turning off lights and appliances, buying products from "green" companies, driving less and walking more.  Reusing plastic bags (or reusable cloth bags) also helps reduce the demand for oil - and not to mention that plastics take years to biodegrade in soil.  Recycling paper reduces the demand for trees and can save rainforests (and animals that live within). 

Of course, saving the world cannot be done by one person.  This shift in awareness has to occur in one person at a time, each doing their part and helping their friends, family and neighbors.

The afternoon transformed into dusk as Sol drove his chariot of fire over the horizon.  We were introduced in a lecture to the Puglia region of Italy - the heel of the boot, so to speak.  Apparently, the whole Southern region is quite beautifully adorned with beaches, fascinating architecture, piazzas, and the Taranta - a native Southern Italian dance that began in the region as an interpretation of the way in which farmers bit by poisonous spiders could sweat the venom out of their bodies when harvesting the fields.  Though, culturally, the dance is believed to have been a way for the sexually suppressed conservative rural women to enjoy some form of intimacy with the opposite sex. 

The dance is simple, with a few basic footsteps that are incorporated into a primitive passionate game of cat and mouse, coy and promiscuous, with occasional poking duels between the men.  Our class all drank the Puglian region "Primitivo" wine and as we did, a sort of ethereal trance sparked inside of me. 

The class and other dancers lined the colorful lavishly decorated room's perimeter.  When the guitar player's fickle fingers picked and plucked his stringed instrument, the tambourine man joined in the rhythm with a steady beat and alternated with a bongo.  The resonating sound could have been that of a didgeridoo or electronically produced for that matter. 

Then the guitar player breathed in deeply, inflating his lungs and closed his eyes and passed air through his larynx whose powerful wind was vibrated by those longing and quivering vocal chords, and carried across the room to my eager ears and interpreted by my "Primitivo" entranced brain as the most beautiful audio experience I could have heard at that given moment. 

Then she appeared out of nowhere.  She was short, with thick dark hair, an olive complexion that screamed southern Italy, and a dark dress that bloomed like an inverted black bellflower when she would spin.  She and another man demonstrated the Taranta as we all watched and we were soon all invited to join in the dance. 

I probably would not have gotten up so quickly had it not been for the Primitivo, but I joined in and lifted my feet one at a time as I shuffled my opposite planted foot against the floor.  It felt completely natural to me as this was how I walked around elementary school hallways years ago.

The song ended and the student dancers all retreated to the perimeter of the circle.  This time, when the band struck up a song, the Italian man grabbed the hand of Erica, another student, and led her on to the dance floor.  And as they stepped and twirled and chased, a pair of eyes below a frame of dark hair caught my gaze and bit me like a spider.  The others had since stopped dancing, and the black-haired bella moved towards me, slowly, stepping, to the steady rhythm of the band and those eyes eagerly drew me out on the floor and the trance took over from there.

We danced the instinctual Taranta for what seemed like eternity, circling, stepping, chasing, engaging.  She gestured me to hold my arms around her as though holding a giant invisible barrel, and move my arms up and down in opposite directions as though shaking the barrel from side to side which in turn caused her to twirl like a tornado, her black dress expanding outward. 

The dance ended as quickly as it began and we were all so exhilarated by this cultural experience that we decided it would be best that the night did not end there, but continue on at a jazz bar by Vatican City.  And as we left, I turned and glimpsed the dancers and band members bundled up in their coats with their instruments all packed up, running giddily in the rain to wherever their life paths take them.  I did not know her name and I will probably never see her again, but I will never forget my first time being bit by the Taranta.

Jaime
Monte di Procida

View of the coast from John and Laurie's hillside villa

Thursday morning Brad and I did our routine ‘scurry out the door' for our 9:20 am class.  Little did we know that Rome's city transit system was on strike, so our professor had trouble getting to class.  It started out just being 20-30 minutes late, and then about an hour later, class got cancelled. It was a bit disappointing since we woke up SO early, but we got over it.  However, because of this strike, Brad and I had to walk to the main train station, Termini, to catch a train that afternoon to Naples-Napoli.

The walk isn't so bad, although it was one of the warmer days we've experienced in Rome and the trek is a constant incline the whole way.  Needless to say, when we got to Roma Termini, we were hot, sweaty, and not too thrilled for the crowded train ride to Naples.

Once we cooled off it was much more enjoyable, and the further we got from Rome, the more people that got off at all the stops between.  Two-and-a-half hours later, we arrived in Naples and patiently awaited Laurie to find us by the station to take us to her home in Monte di Procida. 

Laurie and her husband John are very good friends of our family, who we have known for a long time, and are stationed with the Navy in Naples; however, they chose to live off of the base in the quaint town of Monte di Procida. We got a little lost in Naples driving, because it was rush hour and they turn some roads that are usually two way streets into one way so it got quite confusing, but there was great conversation and we got to see a lot in the city!  

After many sinuous turns up and down hills, we arrived to John and Laurie's beautiful villa in Monte di Procida. It has a gorgeous view of the Mediterranean Sea, Naples, other neighboring towns and is surrounded by seven grape vines, fig trees, lemon trees, olive trees, great people and seven farm cats (all with names and two meals a day). 

That evening we headed to the neighbor's house for a quick glass of wine and then we all walked down to a favorite restaurant La Taverna dei Sapori. It is a fabulous restaurant where one will probably eat the best and most authentic Italian food from the Campania region.  La Taverna dei Sapori is owned and run by Mariella and her husband Pepe.

They are lovely people and their restaurant has a great ambiance and family feel to it. It is said in Italy, the best restaurants are the ones without menus, and this was certainly one of them.  We ate many typical appetizers of this region such as fried mozzarella balls, calamari, oysters, and croquets. 

Then for our main course we ordered two big dishes of pasta. The first was a dish prepared fusilli, which is different from our fusilli of the states. It looks more like telephone chords prepared with pumpkin and sausage. The other dish was Paccheri alla Norma, which is a typical pasta shape of the area, which looks like a one-by-one inch square that is actually a tube, prepared with eggplant and smoked mozzarella. 

There wasn't any left to bring home.  It was a very relaxing weekend, and it almost felt as if we were back home.  We also got to eat some typical Neapolitan-style pizza at a pizzeria owned by a man name Salvatore. It was definitely some of the best pizza I have ever had. It was so fresh and the crust was perfect. 

John and Laurie were so hospitable and so much fun to spend time with again. It was also very cool to see Italy from a small town perspective. Everything seemed a little more slowly paced.  It is amazing how much history this little groupings of towns have!  They are all surrounded by, or on the sides of, old volcanoes.  You can find sunken Roman towns, Venus's temple, ancient Roman baths, castles, the island where Brutus plotted to kill Caesar, the lake in which Dante refers to as the entrance to hell, and much more in such a small area.

Brad

Paesum temple
Jaime and Brad at the Paesum
The contemporary emperor of Paesum

It would have been exceptionally tempting to laze around at the lovely villa and simply bake in the sun all day while reading a book on the citrus, grape, and olive speckled hillside with a view of the Mediterranean coastline ... but Jaime and I are neither retired nor ready to be and our location was much too convenient for an adventure to the ruins of an ancient civilization. 

Escorted by our newfound naval aviator friend, Eric, (call sign "Dish") his cousin Jananin and her boyfriend, we confused our nervous systems with caffé corretto and weaved our way through the Italian highways along beaches, around active volcanoes, across farmland, and finally arrived at The Paestum.

The Paestum is the ruins of a 7th century Greek civilization that was subsequently conquered and ruled by the Romans.   Now nothing remains but the crumbling bones of history inhabited by a kingdom of lizards that, we theorized, had conquered the Romans some time ago. 

These ruins were unlike any others we have seen.  The massive pillared temples dedicated to such Gods and Godesses as Poseidon, Hera, and Athena and deteriorated neighborhood homes resided amidst a carpet of grass garnished with yellow wildflowers and surrounded by towering trees standing guard. 

A small Greek temple lay predominantly buried, apparently by the Romans, at the center of the ruins, yet was protected by a wall that they erected on behalf of reverence for the other culture's religious traditions.  It was strange to see such tolerance for a society who Rome had just pillaged, but admirable nevertheless. 

A third of an amphitheatre remained with white flowers all dotting the concealed grass.  We circled the entire archaeological site and treated ourselves to some sweet creamy frozen gelato to cool down before sleeping all the way home.

 

Jaime
Vulcano Sulfato

Hiding under umbrellas from the sulfuric steam of the volcano

One afternoon we drove to Il Vulcano Solfatara which is in the Phlegrean Fields volcanic region. As soon as we turned a corner a few blocks from the volcano, the smell of sulfur invaded the car. It is inactive, but still has steaming jets of sulfurous vapor up to 160° C.

Volcano Solfatra

There are also some mud fields that are bubbling because of the combination of the different gases in the mud and the mineral-rich water mixing together.  At one time it was even used as a spa. 

It was incredible actually standing in a crater of a volcano that once blew its top off.  There are numerous vents shooting steam out all along the crater walls, the ground is fairly soft because of the heat, and the pedestrian path is always changing because new vents appear along the way.  The rocky terrain is stained the yellow-green color of sulfur, yet in the distance you can see green trees and shrubs.  It was a very neat experience, and we are very thankful that it didn't wake up and explode us into the bay of Naples!

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